Hi Tim,
Thank you for great suggestions & comments - especially the
reversing switch.
I now realize I would have figured that out right about when the auger screwed itself all the way down into heavy earth !
Reverse is also critical for the soil I am trying to drill - former gravel pit area - LOTS of rocks. (Elec-Trak tiller jammed every other pass - dashboard reverse would be great for that - if gearbox is type that is bi-directional. )
Adjusting for plumb is another thing I would have probably figured out right AFTER I drilled a few holes at an angle - due to my initial concept of just welding Elec-Trak frame stabbers onto the standard rectangular well drilling slide rig. Duh me !
That is why I posted a couple of these project questions - it
seems smarter to collect the best ideas available BEFORE welding !
I also thought about the counter balance towable design - but I
have lots of scrap bed frame angle iron sitting around, so the
vertical slide frame seemed more possible & quick & less
$$.
One way of another, lift assistance IS necessary. Not so young
anymore.
Also, I have a Curtis 1204 motor control I could wire in for speed control.
Hmmm.
Thanks again.
John
Many years ago, I did fashion a 36v earth auger and use it to set about a dozen corner/gate posts for a fence. It was a counter balance design similar to the towable units offered at most rental yards (Little Beaver HYD-TB11H is one model). Instead of having a gas engine and hydraulic pump counter balancing the auger and motor, I used a stack of exercise weights for adjustability. The auger was driven by a 500 RPM 1/2hp motor. The posts were set using a 6 inch auger going about 24 deep, but I did sink a 12 inch diameter test hole at least a foot deep. The 12 inch auger required more consistent lifting to clear the dirt, mainly a weight issue.
Using the gear train from an ICE auger with a higher RPM motor does sound like a good idea. That way the motor isn't taking the weight of the auger and dirt when clearing the hole. Definitely plan reversing into the controls so you can back the bit out if it snags on a root or you let it dig too deep without clearing the hole. If you will be any where near the bit when it is turning, a dead man switch is a necessity. Speed control is also nice so you can avoid jerk starts. Of course they now make 40v cordless ice fishing augers that can take earth auger bits, but I suspect your idea would be more powerful than a converted cordless unit.
The counter balance frame took up too much storage space, so I have given some thought to what 2.0 will be if/when needed. With a vertical slide frame attached to the tractor (like a well rig or the attachment Danuser made decades ago for garden tractors), you need the ability to adjust (plumb it) in case the tractor isn't on level ground. For a tractor mounted earth auger, I wonder if a design more like an auger for a 3 point hitch would be better. Basically a t-shaped beam with brackets on the cross bar that would pin to the tiller mount in place of the tiller and the auger motor hung from the other end. If the motor is suspended with 2 pivots 90 degrees to each other, then gravity would "auto plumb" the hole. The rear electric lift could then be used to raise and lower the unit with holes dug from the seat. With the auger motor detached, the t-shaped arm might even double as boom pole for lifting things.
IMO either counterbalancing or power lift is a good idea even on the smaller bits. But if lift assistance is not necessary, consider just attaching a hinged pipe between the tractor (front or rear stabbers) and the auger frame to act as a torque tube. Similar to a Little Beaver HYD-PS11H with the tractor in place of the cart with an engine. I think they even use to offer a torque tube set up that allowed the Little Beaver hydraulic heads to be attach to the trailer hitch of a vehicle with onboard hydraulics.
Tim M
On 10/13/2020 10:04 AM, john wrote:
Hi Group,
Just wondering if anyone has seen / made an electric Earth Auger, 36V, powered by Elec-Trak ?
I have an old 1-man 2 Cycle gas unit, with broken flywheel fins, that I thought might be a workable base for 36V motor conversion.
I also have a PM traction motor (maybe 1/2 to 1 HP ?) from an old red (Wheel Horse / Toro ?) small riding mower I took apart 20 years ago.
Seems as though I just need a metal adapter plate & shaft coupler.
Deadman switch & appropriate amps circuit breaker would be smart.
Vertical slide frame (like used with 1 man post hole drilling for wells) with stabbers that mount on tractor would be great - or towed trailer.
Electric lift on slide frame would be helpful for large diameter augers.
Any thoughts / suggestions ?
John
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