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Meantime here is a quick Pic of the washer on the motor. https://i.imgur.com/QIsBJLj.jpg On August 7, 2019 10:43:09 AM EDT, Chris
Zach <cz alembic crystel com> wrote:
Agreed. Watching that one bearing break apart slowly-ish made me appreciate that a quicker break apart would mean jagged parts going further distances... C On 8/7/2019 10:36 AM, Dean Stuckmann wrote:You could actually keep the force on the puller a bit lower because the air chisel hits would do most of the work when cracking the bearing loose. Personally I would never use an impact wrench on a puller as you have no idea on how much stress you are putting on things. Could be a real safety issue if something broke. Regards, Dean A. Stuckmann 5432 County Road U Newton, WI 53063On Aug 6, 2019, at 10:52 PM, Chris Zach <cz alembic crystel com <mailto:cz alembic crystel com>> wrote: Yep, that's what I got, however it can easily hit the wires when taking off the big bearing on the large mower motors. I think it just takes some time and practice, being able to swap these bearings will lead to a much quieter mower. I thought about using my small air impact wrench, but I don't want any more bearings exploding :-) On 8/6/2019 10:52 PM, Dean Stuckmann wrote:Hi, I’m a bit late to the conversation but replacing bearings is quite easy if you have a puller like this. https://www.harborfreight.com/bearing-separator-and-puller-set-62593.html It allows you to remove the blade hub without pulling on the blade flange, and easily gets behind the bearings without hitting the windings. Best $50 I spent. I never timed it but I would guess 1-2 hours per motor and that includes taking them off and on the deck. For very stubborn bearing pulls a have another trick for you. Crank the puller tight and then use an air chisel with a blunt tip punch on the end of the puller. I keep a 1/2 drive socket on the end of the puller as a guide for the punch so the air chisel stays on the end of the puller when you pull the trigger. The combination of the pullers tension and a couple brief rattles of the air chisel gets even the most stubborn bearing moving. Page 8-3 of the Home Owners Service Manual shows the following Small motor. A (3) pc end play kit of (2) flat washers and (1) wavy. No bearing snap rings are called out. Large motor. (1) wavy washer and a (2) pc “moisture” seal for the hub end. They don’t describe what that is made of. Looks like a snap ring for the large bearing in the photo but it is not called out as a separate part. Speaking of bearings. I just replaced the bearings in my METI deck motors. I was talking to our local bearing store techs and he suggested LLU seals for the deck motors. See this to see why https://www.ntn-snr.com/sites/default/files/2017-03/en_ntn_ball_bearings_-_shield_and_seal_types.pdf Good luck Regards, Dean A. Stuckmann 5432 County Road U Newton, WI 53063On Aug 6, 2019, at 8:42 PM, Jim Coate <lists freerangeelectric com <mailto:lists freerangeelectric com><mailto:lists freerangeelectric com>> wrote: "copper" washer sounds like a bronze thrust bearing... don't think I've ever seen one used in the location described. On 08/05/2019 7:46 pm, Chris Zach wrote:Slight follow up: I found a copper washer in the parts pile from this, turns out it goes on the end of the motor shaft and seals the motor. My guess is then the smaller rubber seal goes on top of that, then the big rubber seal on that. It does however rub a little and make a bit of noise at low speed, which means the second bearing might have gone a tiny bit too far as well. Hm. I might just let it be for now, could be worse.-- Jim Coate www.FreeRangeElectric.com <http://www.freerangeelectric.com/><http://www.FreeRangeElectric.com <http://www.freerangeelectric.com/>> Home of The Electric Tractor Store |
