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I'll have to monitor them next time I
run it, see what they do during charging.
This is from the instruction manual - When properly connected the amber LED indicator
should illuminate. This indicator will
stay
illuminated until the battery voltage has
reached
approximately 14.4 volts and the
charge
current has decreased to 0.5 amps. At
this
point, the amber indicator turns off and the
green
indicator turns on. Also occurring at the
same
time, the internal voltage reference of the
charger
will change in order to maintain the
battery
voltage at 13.2 volts. At this lower
voltage
charge, current is typically a few milli-
amperes
(.001 ampere). Under this condition
most all
batteries can be left charging indefi-
nitely.
While in the maintain mode, if the battery
was
loaded 0.5 amps or greater the charger will
reset to
the full charge state until the above
conditions
once again meet.
--------- -end manual quote- They have been working well, less water loss these 2 years. The dead cells I think are not likely caused by the charger/s, as the rest of them I'd expect to also be similarly bad. The main problem I've had with the OEM charger is that it's manual. Too much guessing & risk of under / over charging, then during long times of no use, loosing charge. My old and too simple float charger I had to adjust for temperature every so often, as it was very simple, but very low lost power at idle. My garage now, where the tractor is parked, is very temperature stable by garage standards. Rarely goes below 70 in winter, not often above 85 in summer. When I built it, I insulated it like I did the house, which is significantly better than even what is required by code for electric heat. I also put in radiant floor heat because it's also one of my workshop spaces, and I have projects in winter. If it gets too hot in summer, and I am out there, I can just open the door to the house, and let the AC come out. Dave On 6/4/2019 1:57 PM, Robert Laird wrote:
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