There aren't any radial needle bearings on
that shaft, so it should be OK.Bear in mind that socket positioning is
critical, or else you will snag and smash the Woodruff key that
transfers motion from the shaft to the rotor.
That will be another one of those additional parts to purchase.
:(
Those wheels will fit on most automotive tire machines. {A rim
clamp type is preferred.} A skilled operator should be able to remove
the old tires and still have wheels left to put the new ones one.
<G>
I've been cheating on my Firestone Town & Country tires [OEM]
for 20 some years now by occasionally giving them a bath of automatic
transmission fluid, (Along with the mower deck and casters / rollers.)
before mowing.
The tires have remained soft, and will make a most evil
screeching sound on pavement during a top speed panic stop.
RJ
Christopher Zach wrote:
RJ
Kanary wrote:
Yes the caliper and the rotor must
slide freely for effective long lasting brake performance.The rotor hub
is aluminum, so alternating applications of propane torch heat and the
penetrant of your choice will resolve that issue.
Of course after doing that, another shaft seal will be in
order. :)
I'll give that a shot this weekend, would it be safe to tap on the hub
with a hammer/socket or will that break something inside the
transmission?
Removing the transmission would be a 14 carat pain because I also have
the tiller bar on there. So I have to remove all of those dippy tiller
brackets as well. Bleah... :-)
Of course I don't need the tiller till spring. Right now the #1 tool is
the mower itself. In a month it's going to be the snow-blower. Then in
the spring it's the tiller. That poor thing never gets a rest...
And while I have the wheels off I could probably take them to Helwig's
and have the tires cut off and new (I have the original rear tires)
ones put on. Those things are hard as *rocks* and probably a good part
of the reason my soil gets compacted.
Chris
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