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Re: (ET) Overheating Problem

        The relays, not eating much, may move. The contactors with their heartier appetite often draw enough current to cause the Power Disconnect to arc, making resistance even higher. Everything drops out. That's where watching the Fuel Level gauge can help narrow things down...........


Jim Coate wrote:
If you have the OEM disconnect, it is indeed a likely source of problems 
as those have known reliability issues. However... if you hear the 
relays clicking, then the disconnect must be turned on OK?  Hmmm. Do 
watch the Fuel Level meter to see what it does.

And yes, I have the "Bill Gunn Style" replacements available - just 
added it to the on-line store. I've been doing a total restoration of an 
E14 so when I installed the disconnect I took lots of color pictures of 
the switch so I can update the instruction sheet someday. And yes, no 
wedding ring while working on the tractor. At least when I remember. And 
remember to change to my other (safety) glasses when painting, grinding, 

Building this tractor from the ground up is giving me new appreciation 
for exactly what all goes into one of these machines. It is taking just 
a little longer than expected :-)

I need to post some pics of the project. And pics of how NOT to bypass a 
broken disconnect switch (also bypassing the fusible link and any remote 
bit of safety).

Jim Coate

soltrak wrote:
Well, I seem to have narrowed the overheating problem to the one battery 
wire. There was a bad connection at the wire lug. I replaced the wire, 
which runs from the second battery in front to the power disconnect 
switch.  NOW the drive motor won't run!!  I switched off the Power 
Disconnect switch when I changed the wire. Is it possible the switch is 
faulty? When I try to put it in reverse or forward, the relays switch 
but nothing happens. 


Jim Coate, Spencertown, New York

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