Re: (ET) re-installing mower motor clutch okbodyoloololooo

[Mike Finck <mikefinck rocketmail com>]

Lol

> On May 31, 2016, at 9:31 AM, Briggs, Michael 
> <Michael.Briggs@unh.eiliooiildu> wrote:
> 
> Okool
> Getting the clutch body off of those mower motors is a pain. Now I'm 
> wondering what method people generally use for re-installing them. The 
> instructions I've seen I think just say to reinstall everything in the 
> reverse order. The clutch body is just held on by friction, so it seep 
> like there are two main approaches - pounding (and putting something 
> like a block of wood over the flange to distribute the force) or 
> pressing. I'm guessing the latter would be the preferred method, to 
> prevent damage? If so, what kind of press do people generally use?
> 
> Thanks,
> Mike
> 
> 
> ________________________________
> Michael S. Briggs, PhD
> UNH Physics Department
> (603) 862-2828
> ________________________________
> 
> ________________________________________
> From: Briggs, Michael <Michael Briggs unh edu>
> Sent: Monday, May 30, 2016 9:22 PM
> To: Harold Zimmerman - Clean Power Supply; elec-trak cosmos phy tufts edu
> Subject: Re: (ET) ugh - bent / broke flange of blade hub
> 
> Thanks Harold. I kept going with the bolt threaded in all the way 
> (making sure I was using a bolt long enough that it could remain 
> bottomed out without the head keeping the clutch body from coming all 
> the way off - just barely). That one was a bit of a bitch to get off. 
> But, as usual, I made it harder than it needed to be. I tightened the 
> split bearing puller nice and tight to make sure it didn't come loose - 
> and it was apparently gripping on the armature shaft pretty good, 
> scraping it some as it slid up. Oops.
> 
> Mike
> 
> ________________________________
> Michael S. Briggs, PhD
> UNH Physics Department
> (603) 862-2828
> ________________________________
> 
> ________________________________________
> From: Harold Zimmerman - Clean Power Supply <cleanpower att net>
> Sent: Monday, May 30, 2016 5:57 AM
> To: elec-trak cosmos phy tufts edu
> Subject: Re: (ET)   ugh - bent / broke flange of blade hub
> 
> Speaking from experience after removing scores if not hundreds of these 
> clutch bodies. The key is to thread a grade 8 bolt in UNTIL THE THREADS 
> BOTTOM OUT but the head of the bolt must not, may not, be down against 
> the clutch body. I don't recall ever having messed up threads when doing 
> it this way. Now, if you thread the bolt into only part of the threads, 
> that is asking for trouble.
> Harold Zimmerman
> 
>> On May 29, 2016 at 9:54pm -0400, you wrote:
>> 
>>                  The recommendation on trying NOT to use the bolt is
>> from an abundance of caution. I had noticed some bolts not feeling quite
>> right upon reassembly. I suspected distortion of the shaft thread being
>> the culprit since the shaft is easily marked with a file.  The
>> shafts///soft/ . The bolts used were Grade 6 or higher.
>> 
>>                    So a suitable drift, or a cut down engine pushrod
>> of the proper diameter could be used. Again, after decades of corrosive
>> activity, those can be NASTY tight. Protect yourself.Things that should
>> not break or slip, sometimes DO. :(
> 
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