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Re: (ET) ugh - bent / broke flange of blade hub



Thanks Harold. I kept going with the bolt threaded in all the way (making 
sure I was using a bolt long enough that it could remain bottomed out 
without the head keeping the clutch body from coming all the way off - 
just barely). That one was a bit of a bitch to get off. But, as usual, I 
made it harder than it needed to be. I tightened the split bearing puller 
nice and tight to make sure it didn't come loose - and it was apparently 
gripping on the armature shaft pretty good, scraping it some as it slid 
up. Oops. 
 
Mike

________________________________
Michael S. Briggs, PhD
UNH Physics Department
(603) 862-2828
________________________________

________________________________________
From: Harold Zimmerman - Clean Power Supply <cleanpower att net>
Sent: Monday, May 30, 2016 5:57 AM
To: elec-trak cosmos phy tufts edu
Subject: Re: (ET)   ugh - bent / broke flange of blade hub

 Speaking from experience after removing scores if not hundreds of these 
clutch bodies. The key is to thread a grade 8 bolt in UNTIL THE THREADS 
BOTTOM OUT but the head of the bolt must not, may not, be down against the 
clutch body. I don't recall ever having messed up threads when doing it 
this way. Now, if you thread the bolt into only part of the threads, that 
is asking for trouble.
 Harold Zimmerman

On May 29, 2016 at 9:54pm -0400, you wrote:

>                   The recommendation on trying NOT to use the bolt is
>from an abundance of caution. I had noticed some bolts not feeling quite
>right upon reassembly. I suspected distortion of the shaft thread being
>the culprit since the shaft is easily marked with a file.  The
>shafts///soft/ . The bolts used were Grade 6 or higher.
>
>                     So a suitable drift, or a cut down engine pushrod
>of the proper diameter could be used. Again, after decades of corrosive
>activity, those can be NASTY tight. Protect yourself.Things that should
>not break or slip, sometimes DO. :(

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