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Re: (ET) ugh - bent / broke flange of blade hub
Thanks Harold. I kept going with the bolt threaded in all the way (making
sure I was using a bolt long enough that it could remain bottomed out
without the head keeping the clutch body from coming all the way off -
just barely). That one was a bit of a bitch to get off. But, as usual, I
made it harder than it needed to be. I tightened the split bearing puller
nice and tight to make sure it didn't come loose - and it was apparently
gripping on the armature shaft pretty good, scraping it some as it slid
up. Oops.
Mike
________________________________
Michael S. Briggs, PhD
UNH Physics Department
(603) 862-2828
________________________________
________________________________________
From: Harold Zimmerman - Clean Power Supply <cleanpower att net>
Sent: Monday, May 30, 2016 5:57 AM
To: elec-trak cosmos phy tufts edu
Subject: Re: (ET) ugh - bent / broke flange of blade hub
Speaking from experience after removing scores if not hundreds of these
clutch bodies. The key is to thread a grade 8 bolt in UNTIL THE THREADS
BOTTOM OUT but the head of the bolt must not, may not, be down against the
clutch body. I don't recall ever having messed up threads when doing it
this way. Now, if you thread the bolt into only part of the threads, that
is asking for trouble.
Harold Zimmerman
On May 29, 2016 at 9:54pm -0400, you wrote:
> The recommendation on trying NOT to use the bolt is
>from an abundance of caution. I had noticed some bolts not feeling quite
>right upon reassembly. I suspected distortion of the shaft thread being
>the culprit since the shaft is easily marked with a file. The
>shafts///soft/ . The bolts used were Grade 6 or higher.
>
> So a suitable drift, or a cut down engine pushrod
>of the proper diameter could be used. Again, after decades of corrosive
>activity, those can be NASTY tight. Protect yourself.Things that should
>not break or slip, sometimes DO. :(
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