Re: (ET) A Cause of Poor Lift Performance

["Nick Skinner" <kc2dzb nycap rr com>]

Chris you bring up a great point, and one I forgot to mention. I have also 
found those rollers to be problematic. I usually put the "axle" shafts in 
the lathe and polish them with scotch-brite and then lightly lubricate them. 
I will either clean up or replace the plastic rollers. I've used teflon rod 
before (had some left from another project), but this might be a good 
application for UHMW poly.

I've never thought about using roller bearings at those points, but I bet 
they would work great.

Nick

-----Original Message----- 
From: Chris Zach
Sent: Monday, January 26, 2015 10:09 PM
To: elec-trak cosmos phy tufts edu
Subject: Re: (ET) A Cause of Poor Lift Performance

On 1/26/2015 9:53 PM, Nick Skinner wrote:
> As part of a rebuild, I always replace the old bushings with new of the
> oilite variety. Depending on the extent of the damage, sometimes the
> shaft requires replacement also. When I'm done with these replacements,
> you can turn the gear with fingertip pressure and roll the shaft
> effortlessly between your index finger and thumb. The proof is in the
> result. All of the units I've rebuilt can lift a snow blower in little
> over 5 seconds and a dozer blade in around 3 with it's original
> attachment point.

All great points; the goal in every case is to minimize friction in the
lift, as when you're tossing on a 200+ pound snowblower or tiller that
friction adds up.

I'd also recommend to check and replace the two rollers in the lift
itself, if those seize then the strap is basically being dragged across
the roller. If anyone knows where to replace those with real
roller-bearing rollers *that* would be a nice thing. The snowblower
seems to have that in it's attachment point.

C

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