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Re: (ET) how does the late model I5 speed control work?
On 9/6/2012 11:36 AM, Charlie wrote:
Chris, if you look at the schematic for the late model E20s and I5s,
you'll see that the 2AH relay's coil is in parallel with the traction
motor armature. As explained here by other people more knowledgeable
than me, when you floor the accelerator on the tractor *****with stock
batteries****** the juice available to the 2AH coil is insufficient to
close the relay and thus the 2A contactor will not drop the toaster
completely out of the circuit. The traction motor is sucking up
everything the lead-acid golf cart batteries can give.
Ah. I have an E20-AA and although I haven't gone upstairs to look at the
schematic I think it's totally normal in terms of 2A.
When I floor the accelerator on my 100% as-built-by-OEM late model
I-5, it most definitely does not go to full field, full armature.
Ok, there is a difference between early and late models.
When I press the CC button while the tractor is in the first speed, it
most definitely drops out the second half of the toaster, and the
tractor surges forward. Incidentally, on the original schematics for
my I5, the button is marked "CC/PP".
That is *very* different. On mine, I push the cruise button and speeds
1-4 work normally, then it locks into 4 so I can let off the throttle.
Then to drop it out I can either floor it (which takes it past speed 5
which drops the CC relay) or hit the brake, or (I think) reverse it. All
of which drop out the CC (I think reverse does it, I forget, I'll try it
in neutral)
It seems to me that your non-stock batteries are probably delivering
so many watts that the circuit is not behaving as designed.
No, I think I just have a slightly different model.
C