On 4/15/2012 2:29 PM, Pieter Litchfield wrote:
I dont weld old fuel tanks!
Oh what could go wrong? I fully understand safety, and will fill it to the brim with gasoline so it won't have vapors to explode :-)
On second thought.... Yes, it's an old fuel tank that I really should just get rid of. But it's been out of the car for 10 or so years, so I doubt it has much fuel vapor in there. I could braize the connections on, or drill a hole and mount a fitting with compression nuts+gaskets...
You can make a tray for the rear of your tractor by welding up some "daggers" that fit the rear frame like the mower deck bracket on the front. I have a weight box that's built this way. It has an extended trailer hitch too, and bolts to the original tow bracket under the rear of the tractor.
That could work; the weight of 25 gallons of water would be about 200 pounds. Heavy, no question; that's probably why the little pressure sprayers have their own wheels. Might be easier just to buy one, but what is the fun in that?
Hey why not buy the whole pump& tank from Northern Tool - trouble is its 12 volts.
Right now I have a lead on a 110 volt jet pump used that someone replaced. Free. I'll take a look at it; maybe I can pull the motor and use a mower motor instead.
The option of just running the motor at 36 volts would depend on the motor type; if it's a series or shunt motor it would work (field strength would equal armature strength) but if it's a PM motor the armature would be much higher than the fixed magnets.
Maybe I should try running the rear lift at 36v. Anything to watch out for (aside from the fact that the overload disconnect will weld itself shut at 36v)? Anyone have a line on a good 20a or so circuit breaker I can wire in series with the motor as an overload protector?
C