REAL good chance. Does the Fuel Level gauge indicate any
life?If it doesn't, remove your wrist watch. Then remove the access
cover for the Control Cabinet.Feel around the Power disconnect until
you find the copper disc inside of the PD. Rotate it with your fingers
and watch the Fuel Level Gauge. Does it twitch and indicate signs of
life now? If so, order the new, much more trouble free replacement from
Harold Zimmerman or any of the other fine purveyors of Elec-Trak® parts.
RJ
soltrak wrote:
Well, I seem to have narrowed the overheating problem to
the one battery wire. There was a bad connection at the wire lug. I
replaced the wire, which runs from the second battery in front to the
power disconnect switch. NOW the drive motor won't run!! I switched
off the Power Disconnect switch when I changed the wire. Is it possible
the switch is faulty? When I try to put it in reverse or forward, the
relays switch but nothing happens.
JL
On Nov 2, 2008, at 11:12 AM, RJ Kanary wrote:
For those of you that are playing at
home......................
Klixon® is no longer under the TI umbrella.They've been spun off. so,
after tracking that down, I found this.
http://www.sensata.com/products/controls/tcb-c.htm
So if you feel compelled to set up your own testing station, those
are the specs.You can track down the traction motor external Klixon® by
following the appropriate links. A bit more digging should yield the
specs for the Klixon® found in the field of the traction motor.
Enjoy. :)
RJ
RJ Kanary wrote:
It is the over current / over temp protective device. Brought to
you by the nice folks at Texas Instruments some time before WW
II.Testing would require knowing the rating, and the amount of time
required for it to open at 100% of rating, 125% of rating, etc., plus a
derate for temperature.{Opens sooner the hotter it is.}
Not having any of that data in front of me, I look at the model
number of the Klixon®. In that number is usually the rating. Taking my
trusty Cornell / Dubilier Battery Eliminator,[Capable of 25 VDC @30A
max.] I select a current output to approximate the rating on the
Klixon®. Then connect the leads, stand back..........turn the power on
and watch ! If the Klixon opens within a second or two at room
temperature, I declare it good and return it to service.
Any time I've seen a mower motor with the armature melted down,
the Klixon has failed this test. Bear in mind, I'm not an EE, nor do I
portray one on Television..........................
RJ
soltrak wrote:
What exactly is the Klixon on the mower motor and how would you go
about checking it?
JL
On Nov 1, 2008, at 1:31 AM, RJ Kanary wrote:
Excessive current draw will cause overheating.A few moments with
an inductive ammeter would steer you in the correct direction. Poor
connections = high resistance = lotsa heat. That's another avenue
that needs to be explored.Another road to take is this............do
any of the Klixons® on the mower motors ever open?
The motor that takes the most abuse is usually the center
one. On the front mount mowers especially since the deck gets bent
and the front part of the blade's path is closer to the ground.If
THAT Klixon® fails closed, under those conditions wiring and
terminals will pay the price.
RJ
soltrak wrote:
Hello,
When mowing one of the front battery wires on my E12s gets so
hot at the terminal that it melted the thin plastic safety cover
that was touching it. I noticed several other battery tops getting
warm also, but this one wire gets hotter than the others. What
could be the cause?
Thanks,
JL
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