RE: (ET) E-15 Rear Discharge Mower Refurb

["Elie, Larry (L.D.)" <lelie ford com>]

I have used a heavy (8") split bearing puller, and also finally machined a 
thin hardened plate, about 3/16" thick to go between the windings and the 
bearing.  Soak in penetrating oil, I use Krull.  This is a large press job 
if it is very bad at all.  You may mushroom the end of the shaft a little, 
but that can be fixed.  Some people put a hardened bolt in the end and 
tighten to save the threads; I do not but be prepared to chase the first 
thread after you press hard.  FAST heat (don't melt the armature 
insulation!) may also help.  There are two theories on the heat; you can 
heat the bearing to expand it OR heat the shaft to expand IN the bearing, 
then cool fully and just heat the bearing.  The second technique will 
crack the rust.  I have never seen one I couldn't get apart.  Also be 
ready to look for a bent shaft; they are not all that uncommon.  The shaft 
CAN be straightened if you have access to a 'scrap-duty' lathe.  You put 
one end in a collet, indicate the shaft and us!
e a mallet repeatedly until you indicate no runnout.

Larry Elie


-----Original Message-----
From: Andrew Poush [mailto:agp@???]
Sent: Sunday, March 30, 2003 11:41 PM
To: elec-trak cosmos phy tufts edu
Subject: Re: (ET) E-15 Rear Discharge Mower Refurb


The last couple emails seemed to deal with removing the upper bearing 
from the shaft.  They jogged my memory about an old puller I had tucked 
away.  It's the wrong size, but I can see that the upper bearing would 
easily come off with a puller of the correct dimensions.

The lower bearing however is really the concern.  It's very rusty - the 
seal underneath is intact but either worn out, inadequately designed, 
or just flawed.  Some rust has even made its way onto the rotor.  The 
clutch body is still attached and the bottom of the case rusted onto 
the lower bearing.  It appears from the drawings on the ET web site, 
that I have missed a step - there is a key shown that I don't 
understand how to remove.  I guess it holds the clutch body to the 
motor shaft.  As for removing the end of the case, I have applied 
penetrating oil and could just try to apply brute force (hammering) to 
remove it, but I want to be sure that I am properly disassembling the 
motor and not to being too rough on it.  Anyone else been through this 
and have any nuggets?  Is there an improved seal available for the 
lower bearing?

Thanks,
Andy