Re: (ET) BB600 NiCad replacement batteries charging cycle

[Timothy Chapin <tchapin umich edu>]

As for lights. Just by 36 volt light bulbs. Any fork truck site sells them


On Thu, Jul 11, 2024, 1:49 PM Christopher Zach via Elec-trak <
elec-trak cosmos phy tufts edu> wrote:

> > http://evdl.org/docs/bb600_nicd.pdf
> >
> > Christopher Zach may have some thoughts. He's used BB600s for years.
>
> Yep, that's the official doc.
>
> > That said, I'd be inclined to do more for their care than Christopher
> did.
> > I'd probably spring for a modern charger with a true NiCd profile. I
> might
> > add a DC:DC converter or two to run the lights and/or lift, so as to
> avoid
> > imbalancing the battery.
> >
> > However, Christoper seems to have had pretty good results with the old 
> > GE
> > boat anchor and battery taps.  I expect he'll chime in with more info.
>
> I'd agree, my "run it as is" works, but one should be able to get better
> capacity and such from a real charger. One of the key elements is these
> batteries like a *lot* of current on charge, and the on-board charger is
> kind of limited to a thousand watts or so. A charger that could do 1500
> watts would be a lot better, and a real NiCD one that handles the
> batteries using the proper profile would be really good.
>
> Putting more cells in parallel just reduces the charge current to each
> cell string. So buy the biggest charger you can.
>
> In terms of voltages, the high charge voltage should be 1.54vpc or 46
> volts. The E20 charger really can't get the pack above 42v at most, so
> there will be some lost capacity. I used to get around 20ah of use per
> string.
>
> Leaving all the strings tied together is a "eh, it works" idea. A better
> solution would be to put a contactor on each string, with the first
> string always connected with a contactor that would "open" it if
> energized. That way you could tie the other contactors to the key switch
> signal, bonding all the strings only when driving (also let the charger
> do that as well for charging). Then you don't have to worry as much
> about self discharge of the strings into each other.
>
> I don't really use taps anymore: I wire the lifts to run straight off 36
> volts on front and rear. Use a real quality lift switch and a 15-20 amp
> fuse to protect the lift if it locks up and you should be happy with the
> attachments hopping like frogs in a dynamite pond. Likewise for lights
> just get a 36 to 12 volt inverter that's on when the lights are on and
> you will be in business.
>
> >> the brake works in parking brake mode, but doesn't seem to do much
> >> otherwise.  I have the manual, and am going to attempt to adjust the
> >> crown nut as described
>
> Adjust the nut, clean up the brake, all that. It's a heavy tractor and
> if you're mowing up and down hills you can use the brake a lot.
>
> Also make sure the pivot is in good shape on the brake pedal. You really
> don't want it to bind. Getting it out is a pain, but once out you can
> properly clean and lube it, then put in a washer on the pivot shaft to
> keep the pedal from binding.
>
> C
>
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