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Re: (ET) E15 will not run



              Rewire it to use the armature contactor configuration. Problem solved.:)


RJ

On 9/1/2021 2:37 PM, Chris Zach via Elec-trak wrote:
Nice job!

I'm working on putting batteries back into the junker E15 out in the yard, blew up a set of NiCDs with a bad charger. Once I get the new cells in there I should be able to fire it up and see how it works.

Only annoying thing about the E15 is how it fries relays when going from F to Reverse. Unless you are totally stopped the field coil will burn up the relay. Annoying, need to figure that out sometime.

C

On 9/1/2021 12:44 PM, Dean Stuckmann via Elec-trak wrote:
Hi,
I just wanted to update everybody on the E15 I recently acquired which did not run.

First off, many thanks to Nick Skinner for all his troubleshooting assistance. His knowledge of the details of how an Elec-Trak works, including which components on card 1 relate to each speed was incredibly helpful. With Nicks help I was able to replace some more components on Card 1 to get more speeds but the operation was sporadic. Probably because the components came from other old cards I had...

In the end I decided to install a new Card 1 from Jim Coate. I did not think it made sense to keep chasing things around on a 50 year old card.   Even If we got it to work, future component failures are almost guaranteed to happen on the old card. The new card was not that expensive and it should make the tractor trouble free for many years to come.

So installed the card and everything worked perfectly - for the first try of all 7 speeds. After that it only had the first 3 speeds as the FW relay would not engage. :-(  A manual push of the FW relay got all my speeds back. The coil resistance in the FW relay turned out to be about 3 times more than new FW which I happened to have in my parts bin. A quick swap of the FW relay has it working like new!

Here are some basics Nick informed me about that would be of help in troubleshooting any issue.
# Get a copy of the “Simplified Troubleshooting Guide”, goto https://www.myelec-traks.com/poppubs.html <https://www.myelec-traks.com/poppubs.html>  and download a copy.
# Wash Card 1 with isopropyl alcohol (normal drug store 70% is just fine) and an "acid brush" you would find in the plumbing department. This will stop any leakage currents, and will also help to prevent corrosive damage.
# Nick stated that he found the card components (scrs and transistors) are pretty reliable. However he replaced all of the capacitors with new. Capacitors have to be functional for the SCRs to trigger.  He had a bad SCR for the PTO, which he replaced with an NOS component from Jim Coate of http://www.ElectricTractorStore.com <http://www.electrictractorstore.com/>.
# Check that the wiring on the relay is OK and that the terminals are OK. Other than that, just chase the wire route. I did not look close enough and found that a wire was disconnected. It got me the first speed forward and reverse again but I’m still working on the other speeds.
# Verify that Card 1 Pad 4 isn’t putting out voltage when you enter speed 1. If it is, then there is a broken connection somewhere between Card 1 and the L contactor.
#
# If not, make sure pad 6 on the Card 1 is getting 36V when the speed selector is in neutral. This is required to ‘reset’ the SCR. If it is getting voltage at neutral, I would suspect capacitor C2 (20uF @50V) (cylinder to the right of CR109), SCR 102 (square with 3 prongs to the right of R107), or a broken lead or trace on the board.

Thanks again!

Regards,

Dean A. Stuckmann
5432 County Road U
Newton, WI 53063



On Jul 22, 2021, at 12:47 PM, Nick Skinner <kc2dzb nycap rr com <mailto:kc2dzb nycap rr com>> wrote:

Hi Dean,
I assume you’ve verified that Pad 4 isn’t putting out voltage when you enter speed 1. If it is, then there is a broken connection somewhere between Card 1 and the L contactor.
If not, make sure pad 6 on the Card 1 is getting 36V when the speed selector is in neutral. This is required to ‘reset’ the SCR. If it is getting voltage at neutral, I would suspect capacitor C2 (20uF @50V), SCR 102, or a broken lead or trace on the board.
I had a similar problem with the PTO on my E15 when I first got it, and it turned out to be a bad SCR.
Nick
*From:* Dean Stuckmann via Elec-trak <mailto:elec-trak cosmos phy tufts edu>
*Sent:* Thursday, July 22, 2021 1:22 PM
*To:* Elec-trak cosmos phy tufts edu <mailto:Elec-trak cosmos phy tufts edu>
*Subject:* (ET) E15 will not run
Hi,
I recently acquired a 26AE15AA that will not run and would like to get your opinions. I was told that the tractor did run when parked indoors many, many years ago. There has been some work done on this tractor in the past. From what I can see the;
- Key switch has been replaced
- Forward / reverse relay is a different unit completely.
- Card 1 has soldered connections for the wires now vs the slip pins and all the wires were cut and reconnected via a 15 pin AMP connector.
I performed some initial checks from the Home Owners Manual.
- Wiring looks clean
- Card components look fine
- Key works
- PTO works
- FWD/REV relay works
- All the microswitches in the speed control are good.
- Voltage from the speed control start switch is getting to Card 1 pins 5 and 6 as they should depending if start was actuated in forward or reverse. However the L coil does not energize. I applied voltage externally and the coil did energize.
From the looks of things, this points to a Card 1 issue but I was wondering if there is something that I may have missed. Could the resistor card be a problem? Or doesn’t that have anything to do with the energizing of the L coil?
Thanks for your help.
Regards,
Dean A. Stuckmann
5432 County Road U
Newton, WI 53063

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