Re: (ET) Curtis controller mod

[Rob Brockway <getractor yahoo com>]

Does anyone know how good the regen braking is on the 4QD?  I have steep 
slopes and would be very interested in getting some feedback.

Sent from my iPhone

> On Apr 28, 2016, at 6:45 PM, David Roden <etpost drmm net> wrote:
> 
>> On 28 Apr 2016 at 12:24, Robert Troll wrote:
>> 
>> Do you have a curtis lying around that is not being used? If so you are
>> looking at around $50 in parts to build the field ckt. The cost of the
>> ET specific alltrax is $450. I would not go out any buy a new curtis,
>> or used one, unless it could be had for under $200.
> 
> I'd still suggest looking at a 4QD.  The 320 amp version is $300 and the 
> smaller 210 amp controller is $240.  
> 
> What interests me about the 4QD is its true 4-quadrant control.  Not 
> that I 
> plan to experiment with skid-steering, but I do like the idea of 
> seamless 
> reversing from a single neutral-center control (wig-wag).  It also has 
> dynamic (regenerative) braking, which I miss a little in the Alltrax.
> 
> There are downsides to it though, as I've mentioned before.
> 
>> If not then give Jim or Harold a call and buy the Alltrax. The ET
>> specific alltrax controls the field natively, and will reducing the
>> wiring down to almost nothing.
> 
> Without a doubt, that's the easiest option. Hey, it worked for me!  But 
> you 
> should know that it's not exactly a bolt in replacement.  
> 
> You really should have a litle background with electronics.  The Alltrax 
> needs an external resistor and diode, or at least mine did, so you 
> should 
> know what those are and how to use them.  You should be able to read a 
> schematic diagram.  Some soldering ability will help too, but you could 
> probably use fastons or crimp connnectors instead.  
> 
> Basically, though, if you've worked on one of the ET circuit cards, 
> you'll 
> probably be fine.
> 
> Then you have to deal with the mechanical challenge of fitting a 5k or 
> 10k 
> ohm potentiometer into the tractor to control the controller.  
> Unfortunately 
> Alltrax never developed bolt-in replacements for the E15 lever and the 
> E20 
> pedal.  
> 
> Though come to that, here are a few options that (for a price) might 
> make 
> things easier:
> 
> https://na.suzohapp.com/products/driving_controls/50-0242-00
> 
> https://na.suzohapp.com/products/driving_controls/50-8184-00
> 
> https://na.suzohapp.com/products/driving_controls/50-8194-02
> 
> I've looked at these arcade controllers many times, but I haven't yet 
> sprung 
> for one.  If you try one, please post your experience.
> 
> Assuming you have all the parts on hand, installing an Alltrax should 
> take 
> you a good chunk of a Saturday, maybe a Sunday afternoon too.  I did 
> mine in 
> a day.  I didn't gut the tractor, though I probably should have.  I 
> reused 
> what wiring still looked good and replaced a little of it.
> 
> Other controllers will no doubt take longer than that to install, but 
> when 
> you're done, you'll never again have problems with burnt relay contacts, 
> exploded card 1 diodes, or loose and corroded card edge connectors.  
> 
> At least to me, this was a big deal.  I actually had the controller for 
> a 
> few months before I installed it.  What got me off my duff was plowing 
> the 
> driveway with the hood propped open and the relay panel tilted down, so 
> I 
> could reverse the tractor by pushing on the reverse relay.
> 
> As a bonus, I got the ability to move the tractor precisely, about a 
> centimeter at a time.  I never had that with the granularity of the 
> click-
> step GE controller.  
> 
> So yes, it's absolutely worth it.  
> 
> 
> David Roden - Akron, Ohio, USA
> 
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