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Re: (ET) disintegrating fuse block connections



On 1/25/2016 9:59 PM, Jim Coate wrote:
I would avoid using common 12-volt automotive blades fuses as those are
only rated to 32 volts. Although 42 volts isn't that much different and
would probably work, don't really want to find out (for a while some
backyard electric car convertors were using such for 120 volt systems
and that was definitely a bad idea). Similarly, I would avoid using
12-volt automotive breakers at triple the rated voltage. Note that the
lift fuse needs to be "slo-blo" ie time delay to handle higher inrush
currents whereas the control fuse and headlight fuse should be the
regular fast-acting type.

For what it's worth, my 12 volt 15amp fuse to the 36 volt lift was seriously hot to the touch when removed, I think it did arc. So yeah, think about the AIR on the fuses.

48 volt DC breakers could work....

C



On 1/25/16 3:55 PM, Charlie wrote:
...Do any of you guys have a recommendation for a 3-fuse
screw-terminal fuse block that would fit the original fuses?

I am considering the brass Cole-Hersee M414 which is a 4-fuse block, but
I can saw one off easily enough.  A picture of that is at
http://www.colehersee.com/home/item/cat/273/M-414/

--Charlie



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