http://electrictractorstore.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=269I would avoid using common 12-volt automotive blades fuses as those are only rated to 32 volts. Although 42 volts isn't that much different and would probably work, don't really want to find out (for a while some backyard electric car convertors were using such for 120 volt systems and that was definitely a bad idea). Similarly, I would avoid using 12-volt automotive breakers at triple the rated voltage. Note that the lift fuse needs to be "slo-blo" ie time delay to handle higher inrush currents whereas the control fuse and headlight fuse should be the regular fast-acting type.
On 1/25/16 3:55 PM, Charlie wrote:
...Do any of you guys have a recommendation for a 3-fuse screw-terminal fuse block that would fit the original fuses? I am considering the brass Cole-Hersee M414 which is a 4-fuse block, but I can saw one off easily enough. A picture of that is at http://www.colehersee.com/home/item/cat/273/M-414/ --Charlie