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Re: (ET) disintegrating fuse block connections



GE used ring terminals in some of the early models. The matching 3-fuse blocks with screw terminals are available here that fit the existing mounting holes:
http://electrictractorstore.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=269

I would avoid using common 12-volt automotive blades fuses as those are only rated to 32 volts. Although 42 volts isn't that much different and would probably work, don't really want to find out (for a while some backyard electric car convertors were using such for 120 volt systems and that was definitely a bad idea). Similarly, I would avoid using 12-volt automotive breakers at triple the rated voltage. Note that the lift fuse needs to be "slo-blo" ie time delay to handle higher inrush currents whereas the control fuse and headlight fuse should be the regular fast-acting type.


On 1/25/16 3:55 PM, Charlie wrote:
...Do any of you guys have a recommendation for a 3-fuse
screw-terminal fuse block that would fit the original fuses?

I am considering the brass Cole-Hersee M414 which is a 4-fuse block, but
I can saw one off easily enough.  A picture of that is at
http://www.colehersee.com/home/item/cat/273/M-414/

--Charlie