I was under the impression, that using the tractor while charging was a bad thing. From: Dean Stuckmann [mailto:dstuck lakefield net]
Sent: Friday, January 14, 2011 5:46 PM
To: Max Hall
Cc: Banks, Michael J.; elec-trak cosmos phy tufts edu
Subject: Re: (ET) Hybrid Electrak? There has been a handful of times over the years where I supplemented the ET with a 100' extension cord right to the old ET charger. Still quiet and only takes a few seconds to hook up. Not to mention cheap! I usually had one of the kids help out with cord management so I would not run it over, or worse yet, get it in the blower! If no one was around to help, I clamped a 4-6 foot bar (with the cord taped to the end of it) to the top of the cab so that any cord I was dragging along was way to the right (or left) the tractor's path. This worked well when backing up too. On Jan 14, 2011, at 12:29 PM, Max Hall wrote:
The telephone company charger story reminds me of another thing I tried a while back: with a belt-driven generator head, the pulley ratio controlled the shaft speed, which controlled the AC output voltage. Since you rectify it anyway, the fact that it's no longer a 60Hz wave matters a lot less. I played with capacitors to smooth the out the signal, and (this was a 48V set-up) it worked nicely. Another thing I did was use an ET drive motor as a generator... Belt from ICE motor (it happened to be a propane-converted Honda 1-cyl) to drive the e-motor, 48 volts from the pack (it was a another 48v set-up, not a 36, but the idea is the same) to the field windings, and that delivered about 40A at 48V... no rectifier, no regulator... just sweet DC out! THAT would be my recommendation! It's a pip. -M On Fri, Jan 14, 2011 at 1:18 PM, Max Hall <mhall maxmatic com> wrote: I respect solutions that work. Despite that it might not be a very ET-ish solution, or whatever I said, if it works, it's worth considering. Note that the charger is a bottleneck... it's only a 600W device or so. And though I never seem to have hurt my charger, I did worry about it. Another way to go that I'm messing with now is generator>rectifier>batteries for a 96V pack. You might consider generator>transformer>rectifier>batteries.... skip the charger altogether. I sympathise... I did a million passes with my 48" plow to get that snow out of the way from that last storm, and took a bunch of recharging breaks (with an aging pack). My thing now is wishing reverse on the E20 wasn't speed limited... I would have to change gears a lot less often! Time to look at the schematic. I haven't used my thrower in a couple of years, but I remember that balance... too much current (pegged ammeter) vs too little snow flow through the chute (and chance of clogging). Ay. On Fri, Jan 14, 2011 at 11:46 AM, Banks, Michael J. <BanksM zhi com> wrote: Yeah, I definitely didn’t expect it to be able to clear the driveway. I don’t have much room to store a walk behind, I barely have room for the ET. Which is why I was thinking, instead of spending $500-600 on a walkbehind, if I could get a generator powerful enough to run the snow thrower (maybe hooked directly), and leave the batteries to move the tractor, for the same price it would be nice. Just wanted to see if anyone had tried it. 1.5 to 2 hours is probably about all you'll get out of your batteries running the snow thrower as hard as you're running it. Everything sounds normal to me, given the conditions. I don't think these machines were designed for that heavy of snow work. I have a gas powered walk behind snow blower as a backup if I ever get a really nasty snow. That wouldn't be a bad idea for you. Probably more cost effective also. _______________________________________________
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