Re: (ET) Batteries wiring with ring terminals

[Jim Coate <jbc_lists_NO_REPLY coate org>]

Original was 6 awg. 4awg makes a nice upgrade, especially for heavy duty 
users (tiller, snow throwers etc). 0 awg would be overkill.

I'm partial to welding cable as much more flexible and easy to work 
with. "Battery cable" cable is stiffer. And house wiring (THHN etc) is 
very stiff and hard to work with IMHO, plus the outer layer of clear 
coating may peel off over time in the battery acid environment.

At least for automotive posts, I've seen "universal" clamp on cable 
ends, which I think are a poor choice. The strands of wire are left 
exposed and will corrode. Not sure I've seen such a set-up for ring 
terminals.

I prefer cast crimp-on connectors, where the end of the barrel is 
closed. Adding a bit of heat shrink tubing (with internal adhesive) 
bridges the gap from where the cable insulation was cut off to where the 
barrel starts, so all the strands of wires are totally sealed.

I prefer to crimp, or crimp and solder so that there is a good 
mechanical connection to start. If just solder, run a risk that if 
anything goes wrong (such as a loose bolt connection to the battery) and 
things start to heat up, the solder will melt and then the cable can 
slip out some and things just get worse even faster.

Quick cable does make some compression type connectors, both ring 
terminal and automotive post style. Similar to compression fittings in 
plumbing. These are spendy but very nice for field repairs with only a 
wrench to tighten them. Add a piece of heat shrink, and the wire strands 
are totally sealed.

Using an ring terminal on a post (G or L) with a through bolt provides a 
good connection as it keeps the lead in compression rather than a stud 
that can get pulled out. I've done fine with ordinary split lock washers.

If doing a controller upgrade and new batteries, I'd also put in a new 
main disconnect switch. Along the way, I'd use a new cable from the top 
battery to the disconnect switch - this takes care of one of the 4 
"built in" cables that you need to change the ends on. ie then only have 
3 cable ends to replace.

And while your at it, make sure the bundle of cables under the frame is 
securely tied to the frame so as not to rub against the belt and/or  pulley.


Jim Coate
*The Electric Tractor Store*
http://www.ElectricTractorStore.com

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steven1955 comcast net wrote:
> 1.  What size cable?  (I have heard size 0.)
> 2.  Can I use a bolt on ring terminal?  (I don't have access to a heavy 
> duty crimper.)  If so, what type will handle the current?  (This would 
> be for the four cable connections where the cables go into the tractor 
> chassis, not for the battery to battery cables where I will buy pre made 
> cables.)
> 3.  Should I use belleville washers to help maintain bolt clamp force?  
> If so, is there a particular washer someone has used?