Re: (ET) Batteries wiring with ring terminals

[rodhower ameritech net]

I just bought a bunch of terminals and welding cable for a dynomometer at 
work.  I found that waytekwire was less expensive than the usual McMaster, 
Newark etc. For cable,
http://order.waytekwire.com/products2/M37/360/350/700/1/4%20GA%20Welding%20Cable/Welding%20Cable-%20Class%20K/Wire%20And%20Cable/

and ring terminal,

http://order.waytekwire.com/productdetail2/M37/35001/4%20GA%205/16%22%20RING%20TERMINAL/

Rod


--- On Wed, 10/7/09, Jim Coate <jbc_lists_NO_REPLY coate org> wrote:

> From: Jim Coate <jbc_lists_NO_REPLY coate org>
> Subject: Re: (ET) Batteries wiring with ring terminals
> To: steven1955 comcast net, elec-trak cosmos phy tufts edu
> Date: Wednesday, October 7, 2009, 12:37 PM
> Original was 6 awg. 4awg makes a nice
> upgrade, especially for heavy duty users (tiller, snow
> throwers etc). 0 awg would be overkill.
> 
> I'm partial to welding cable as much more flexible and easy
> to work with. "Battery cable" cable is stiffer. And house
> wiring (THHN etc) is very stiff and hard to work with IMHO,
> plus the outer layer of clear coating may peel off over time
> in the battery acid environment.
> 
> At least for automotive posts, I've seen "universal" clamp
> on cable ends, which I think are a poor choice. The strands
> of wire are left exposed and will corrode. Not sure I've
> seen such a set-up for ring terminals.
> 
> I prefer cast crimp-on connectors, where the end of the
> barrel is closed. Adding a bit of heat shrink tubing (with
> internal adhesive) bridges the gap from where the cable
> insulation was cut off to where the barrel starts, so all
> the strands of wires are totally sealed.
> 
> I prefer to crimp, or crimp and solder so that there is a
> good mechanical connection to start. If just solder, run a
> risk that if anything goes wrong (such as a loose bolt
> connection to the battery) and things start to heat up, the
> solder will melt and then the cable can slip out some and
> things just get worse even faster.
> 
> Quick cable does make some compression type connectors,
> both ring terminal and automotive post style. Similar to
> compression fittings in plumbing. These are spendy but very
> nice for field repairs with only a wrench to tighten them.
> Add a piece of heat shrink, and the wire strands are totally
> sealed.
> 
> Using an ring terminal on a post (G or L) with a through
> bolt provides a good connection as it keeps the lead in
> compression rather than a stud that can get pulled out. I've
> done fine with ordinary split lock washers.
> 
> If doing a controller upgrade and new batteries, I'd also
> put in a new main disconnect switch. Along the way, I'd use
> a new cable from the top battery to the disconnect switch -
> this takes care of one of the 4 "built in" cables that you
> need to change the ends on. ie then only have 3 cable ends
> to replace.
> 
> And while your at it, make sure the bundle of cables under
> the frame is securely tied to the frame so as not to rub
> against the belt and/or  pulley.
> 
> 
> Jim Coate
> *The Electric Tractor Store*
> http://www.ElectricTractorStore.com
> 
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> 
> steven1955 comcast net
> wrote:
> > 
> > 1.  What size cable?  (I have heard size
> 0.)
> > 2.  Can I use a bolt on ring terminal?  (I
> don't have access to a heavy duty crimper.)  If so,
> what type will handle the current?  (This would be for
> the four cable connections where the cables go into the
> tractor chassis, not for the battery to battery cables where
> I will buy pre made cables.)
> > 3.  Should I use belleville washers to help
> maintain bolt clamp force?  If so, is there a
> particular washer someone has used? 
> 
> 
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