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Re: (ET) Motor Break in



  Brushes are "seated in" using a seater stone (white chalky stone) that produces abrasive dust that goes under the brush to round the brush face in and remove commutator film.  Do not use commutator stones that remove copper (and come in various grades - fine, medium, etc..) because they remove commutator copper which imbeds into the brush faces and causes threading and other bad things.  They are meant to "true up" a commutator if the surface becomes rough.
  With seated brushes, there is no other concern in running a new (or rebuilt) motor at full load. 
 
...Walt


From: David Barden [mailto:daveb drizzle com]
Sent: Tuesday, July 21, 2009 2:44 PM
To: Chris Tromley
Cc: Konstanty, Walter (GE Infra, Energy); Elec-Trak Email Discussion List; Pestka, Dennis J
Subject: Re: (ET) Motor Break in

another way is to use a "com-stone".  I've not done it yet but I believe the procedure is: use a 12 supply and put the stone to the commutator.  it adds grit to the comm which  curves and seats the brushes.  do for about 20 or 30 minutes stop maybe every 10 minutes and pull the brushes.  what you are looking for is a nice even curvature across the brush that indicates the entire face of the brush is contacting the comm.  don't stop until you get that.
ciao,
dave b

On Tue, July 21, 2009 9:46 am, Chris Tromley wrote:
> I'm not so sure about that. I'm not an authority and I've been off
> the EVDL for years now. But common knowledge there is that new
> brushes take awhile to bed into the commutator. There have even been
> cases where brushes were supplied with no curvature at all.
>
> On an EV that will be drawing hundreds of amps almost constantly,
> getting the brushes to mate with the commutator before loading it will
> reduce arcs and sparks. I'd pull a brush or two and see how much of
> the available area is actually contacting the commutator. If it was
> over 50% I'd drive it easy for 100 miles and then let 'er rip. If not
> I'd do some sort of bed-in procedure. I remember people saying to
> hook up a constant 12V supply (won't cause overspeed on a 96V rated
> series motor) and let it run for hours.
>
> Chris
>
> On Tue, Jul 21, 2009 at 10:59 AM, Konstanty, Walter (GE Infra,
> Energy)<Walter Konstanty ge com> wrote:
>>   On electric motors, there is no break-in period.  DC motors are usually
>> load tested to overload and ac motors are at least no load run.  Bearings
>> and brushes are seated to allow immediate full load operation.  Insulation
>> hi-pot and resistance tests check integrity of the system.
>>
>>   On large DC machines we run them to build a film up on the commutator.
>> Industrial customers do not baby machines so they are designed to run at
>> rating out of the box.
>>   As Dennis states, drive it like you stole it.
>>
>> ...Walt Konstanty
>> GE Motors
>> ________________________________
>>
From: elec-trak-bounces cosmos phy tufts edu
>> [mailto:elec-trak-bounces cosmos phy tufts edu] On Behalf Of RJ Kanary
>> Sent: Tuesday, July 21, 2009 10:51 AM
>> To: Pestka, Dennis J
>> Cc: Elec-Trak Email Discussion List
>> Subject: Re: (ET) Motor Break in
>>
>>        What does the manufacturer recommend? If it is a brush less motor, I
>> can't envision any break in being necessary. Drive it like you stole it. <G>
>>
>> RJ
>>
>>
>> Pestka, Dennis J wrote:
>>
>> Now that I have my 65 Datsun truck running, I would like some
>> suggestions on breaking in the motor.
>> At present the motor probably only has ~ 2 hours on it.
>>
>> Should I try to drive at a certain RPM ?
>> Is keeping the RPM higher better than lower ?
>> Any other suggestions ?
>>
>> Motor - FB1-4001A Advanced 9".
>> (13) 156V of Odyssey PC-1750 Batteries.
>>
>>
>> Thanks;
>> Dennis
>> Elsberry, MO
>> http://www.evalbum.com/1366
>>
>>
>>
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