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Re: (ET) Battery Question



Raymon

I use the same kill-a-watt power meter and it's a great tool. Now that I think about it, I should have used it recently to figure out how much it costs to charge my three battery packs after doing a discharge test on them all. A couple of cents probably.

The rest of you could buy those kill-a-watt meters on-line from multiple sources for $20 and up. I found a vendor on eBay that you could buy one from for $19.49 and pay just $5 for priority mail shipping versus $10 through other vendors. As Raymon mentioned, it has several display output options, watts, voltage, AC frequency, voltage, and most importantly the KWH consumed.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=320061688029

If any of you find a better deal, feel free to share it in here. I might buy a second one!

Cheers

Matt


From: "Raymon Ellis" <raymonellis adelphia net>
To: <elec-trak cosmos phy tufts edu>
CC: "Ralph G. Vogan" <ralphgv talkamerica net>
Subject: Re: (ET) Battery Question
Date: Fri, 15 Dec 2006 15:27:12 -0500

David C Robie wrote about a way to (read the AC current going into the
charger with a clamp on ammeter clamped over a single wire in the cord
(black or white, not green).  Found in my bottom drawer this morning with
the stud finder, telephone line tester, and other pieces of test equipment
was a Micronta AC Volt-Ammeter complete with Inline Inductive Pick-up
Multiplier almost like new purchased from Radio Shacks 20 years ago. It was
used to analyze problems with my deep well water pump that was randomly
tripping the circuit breaker and on another occasion aided in installing a
delayed start timer in my AC unit which tripped on restart after a power
loss. The clamp-on meter would be a good way to go, but the Kill A Watt
meter is simpler. Just plug the meter into a standard grounded wall socket
and plug the charger cord in to the front side of the meter. Meter displays
Volt, Amp, Watt, Hz, & KWH by a pressing one of 5 buttons on the front of
the meter. The KWH will accumulate until the meter is unplugged. This meter
read the drop in current into the E-20 charger from over 9 amps down to less
than 2 amps on my last test. The accuracy may be questioned but one may
determine the point at which equalization is reached with the GE charger.
The current into my charger definitely tapers down as the voltage increases.
The end point may be discovered with a few test charges. Most all with the
Landis users are completely satisfied based on the comments except Ralph G.
Vogan who lost a number of batteries and has said he needs to make further
study. And of course you have read about my battery problems.  Today PH, a
satisfied Landis user, says the full charge is 38.2 volts. My reading this
afternoon is 38.5 volts so I will continue monitoring. Thank you all for
your help.



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