Re: (ET) E10 tire problems

[David C Robie <mycroftxx1 juno com>]

Have never owned an E10.  However, assuming the E10 to be a 'giant E8' 
with the wheels attched to tubings which slip over stub shafts coming out
of the tranny and held on with a cross bolt through both.  Here is the
procedure I've used with E8.

First - go out and get a can of the most powerful rustbuster that is
available.  I favor Gibbs but there are others.  This is not a job for
such as WD40 but for something much better.  Ask several garage men what
their favorite product is for taking off rusty nuts n bolts, or brake cyl
bleed fittings.  If one of em buys it by the case perhaps you can from
them.  These products are not cheap.  Instance, have seen Gibbs sell for
$18 a can at car parts hotrod etc show flea markets.

Then, remove the crossbolt.  Spray the product in thev hole and into the
tranny end of the outer tube.  Let it wait bout 15 mins.  Then spray it
again and drive the tractor without the crossbolt in it.  Do turns
reverses, drive on lumpy areas.
When that thing starts to turn so you no longer see light through th
crossbolt holle shoot it again both places.
At the point where she spins free you should be able to take off wheel
and tube.  Jack up that sode,  Put tranny in low gear, prevent input
pulley from turning and work it off by hand. pulling and turning
simultaneous.

Then clean up the axle and swab the rusty gunk out of the tube.  Smear
the axle with anti sieze, reinstall the wheel, line up the bolt hole, put
in the bolt, then do the other side same way.

Sometimes it's necessary to use a bit of heat on the tube outside to get
it to break free.  In which case use only propane torch not oxyacet. Try
the driving thing while she's still hot.  If not, heat her again and
before she cools spray bolthole and end again.  While cooling she will
suck in the breakfree.

This has worked on several tractors I know of. One of em she broke free
on the first 'violent reverse', and a few seconds of 'running in place'
while pushing her sideways both ways spread enough breakfree around so
she came right off.

With the conventional bolt on type wheels, the breakfree goes into all
wheel and axle contacts both sides, and drive a little with loosened lug
nuts.  A little not a lot.

With breakfree of any type, it is important to give it some waiting time
to weep into the rusty part.  The most active ingredient of most of em is
oil of wintergreen but other additives are put in to help the stuff seep
along make it somewhat slippery and dissolve rust somewhat.  WD 40 or any
type of oil is not called for on these tough jobs so don't 
even try em.  Mystery oil is an old standby, but these days there are
better products out there that creep along inside a rusty fittings and
joints longer and faster.  Gibbs is one of em.  Many antique auto / farm
equipment antique steam and gas engine restorers and industrial
mechtechs-electechs favor it.

Best o'luck with this. Sometimes we gotta sweat a little and do travail
and heavy labor on these things but it's well worth it.

Dave
Weymouth MA


   






On Wed, 8 Nov 2006 11:12:42 EST Oasis654 aol com writes:
> hi dave, don't know if you have any tricks for getting stuck e10 
> wheels off 
> the axel, but i could use some. thanks, jon k