Re: (ET) re-connecting the charger timer

[David C Robie <mycroftxx1 juno com>]

I been running that way - both tractors - for years when I need an AC
charge (like in winter with 2 wks of sunless days)  No timer on either. I
just pull it out when the plug ain't warm any more and the meter's up in
the white.  To be more complex, I could plug her into one of those $7.00
Air conditioning timers, set for 4 hrs if real down and unplug any time
after that (or she would do 4 hrs the next day too).  Have done that. 
But with the solar I don't need to do it but a couple times a yr. (Too
tough to find the blasted AC timer again.)

Dave
Weymouth MA


On Mon, 7 Aug 2006 17:42:30 -0400 (EDT) Michael S Briggs
<msbriggs alberti unh edu> writes:
> 
> Since I need to fix the Landis controller I fried, and don't want to 
> have 
> to wait until that's working again before being able to charge the 
> tractor, I need to either put the timer back in, or just bypass it 
> altogether. So, first - would there be anything wrong with just 
> bypassing 
> the timer (or Landis controller), and putting a fused jumper on the 
> cable 
> that's normally open from line power (the line that the Landis or 
> timer 
> close to give power to the charger), to just let it run the charger 
> for a 
> while - and manually turn it off after a while? (and basically 
> manually do 
> what the Landis does, but after letting it charge for a few hours. 
> Disconnect the power cord to the charger, let it set for a while, 
> and see 
> how long it takes the voltage to drop to determine how fully charged 
> it 
> is) I'm not suggesting this as a permanent charging system, but 
> something 
> temporary, until I have the Landis working again, so my pack doesn't 
> sit 
> around partially discharged for days. (if I do this, I'd just need 
> to make 
> sure I don't go to bed, forgetting that it's plugged in, and 
> overcharge 
> the pack)
>       If that's a no go, I need to put the timer back in. 
> Unfortunately, 
> since I wasn't planning on putting it back in, I didn't pay close 
> attention to how it was connected when removing it. From inspecting 
> the 
> timer, and looking in the service manual, it looks like it should 
> need 
> line voltage (white and black cables) powering the timer motor - 
> which I 
> assume is the small gauge wires (looks like around 14 gauge perhaps) 
> 
> coming off of the bottom of the timer. Those should connect to the 
> white 
> and black lines from the power cable - since it's AC power, 
> presumably it 
> doesn't matter which line connects to which of the wires from the 
> timer 
> motor?
>       Then it needs the black line coming from the power line 
> (wall 
> line) to go to one of the prongs on the timer, and one of the other 
> prongs 
> (spade connectors) connects to wire 52, going to the transformer. By 
> using 
> my multimeter (yes, the digital one again), my assumption is that 
> the two 
> spade connectors right next to each other are the ones that get 
> these 
> connections. When the dial is turned to off, there is essentially 
> infinite 
> resistance between them. Turn the dial some, and they're connected 
> (not 
> zero resistance, but fairly small - although it does jump around, 
> but that 
> could be due to all the rust on the connectors, which I need to 
> scrape 
> off).
>       So, until I get the Landis fixed - should I just put a 
> fused 
> jumper between wire 52 (goes to the transformer) and the black line 
> coming 
> in from the power cable, so the charger will just be on whenever 
> it's 
> plugged in? Or should I put the old timer back in for now, and if 
> so, is 
> my above guesstimation on the connections correct?
> 
> Thanks,
> Mike
> 
> -- 
> 
> --------------------------------------------------------------
> Michael S. Briggs
> UNH Physics Department
> (603) 862-2828
> ---------------------------------------------------------------
> 
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