RE: (ET) E12S with overheating current limiter

[Tim Humphrey <hump evgrin com>]

Are these the metal bands that are located in the front of the tractor, 
behind the grill.

If so I wouldn't necessarily assume there is a field problem. I would 
first look to make sure that the speed control switch is working and 
engaging the proper relays to drop those things out of the circuit.

My I-5 recently was acting a little flaky and doing just that. There is a 
power drop due to having the resistors in line, but it may not be 
apparently obvious. On level ground the power drop is slightly noticable 
but not like it is when you come to a hill. It will seem like weak 
batteries, until you come to an incline, then it will seem like DEAD 
batteries.  The gauges however will indicate that nothing is wrong. That's 
how I knew is was those blasted resistor bands. I would have normal 
voltage and current draws, but no (low to very low) power to the ground.

My problem was in the foot switch and not the relays.

Good Luck.

Hump


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From: elec-trak-bounces cosmos phy tufts edu
[mailto:elec-trak-bounces cosmos phy tufts edu] On Behalf Of RJ Kanary
Sent: Thursday, September 01, 2005 10:10 PM
To: JReedsoars aol com; elec-trak cosmos phy tufts edu
Subject: Re: (ET) E12S with overheating current limiter


      E-12 S has a wound field motor. Since reversing is handled by a relay
instead of armature contactors, that is usually the first area I would look
at for a loss of field voltage issue.


----- Original Message -----
From: JReedsoars aol com <mailto:JReedsoars aol com>
To: elec-trak cosmos phy tufts edu <mailto:elec-trak cosmos phy tufts edu>
Sent: Thursday, September 01, 2005 9:14 PM
Subject: (ET) E12S with overheating current limiter


I recently bought an E12S. I replaced the CB1 automatic thermal circuit
breaker and the PTO relay and all the batteries. The wiring and all
components look excellent but looks are deceiving.

When I run in any power setting forward or backward it runs well for about
two to three minutes and then the metal bands labeled in the manual as
current limiter all start smoking profusely. The power then drops and it
will not move itself.

Does anyone have any ideas where to start troubleshooting or how to fix it?
Some of the posts look similar but I am not certain.

Jim Reed
Fairmont, WV



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