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Mike Wallace wrote comments on E20 conversion and requested
pictures. I’ll have to report the following: My PC camera has a fixed
focus when used away from the PC so the pictures are not the best. I took some
pictures yesterday in the sunlight of the workings behind the panels but you
could not tell what you were viewing when connected to the PC so I deleted
them. One day I may get a better camera. I sent my wife the same pictures on
her PC and she said they were good. She has Explorer 6.0. There probably is
something wrong on my PC because the pictures you sent me were just large red
blobs with no details at all. I have seen your very good work on pictures sent
by Steve Richardson so I think I already have them on file. Here is what’s behind the panels: 1. Behind the main panel on the left is a connector strip
holding the diode and the resistor called for in the schematic followed by a 10
position connector strip for connections to the Curtis pots and the DCX300 ET to
easily test and correct wiring. 2. I kept the connector block projecting down from the dash cutting
off the wires inches below the block to connect with new wires and labeled each
wire. Staples has a white 1” round print or write Mailing seal label 05247
which works OK for me. Use an ink pen to write the description along the
perforation in the center of the label and fold it around the wire. Cut off the
excess label close to the wire for a neat job. You can’t get it off! 3. The large biscuit circuit breaker on main motor connects
only the PTO and not the main motor. If the mower stops I’ll know the
motor is hot and cool it. 4. I pick up power for the controller after the key, seat,
and brake switches like the AllTrax schematic. The DCX300 ET is mounted on the
right with the top about 1” above opening. 5. The main contactor is a double one which drops back to a
set of normally closed points when turned off. The charger is wired through these
points to prevent turning on the charger when the DCX300 ET is powered. Steve
Richardson said this is good. 6. A small computer light fiber optic tube is positioned to
pick up the led signals from the DCX300 ET and goes through the dashboard near
the cruise control switch. Very helpful. 7. A dash pot, same as in the Curtis, is mounted to the
right of the key where the power plus switch existed. A thin piece of phenolic
board was cut to fit into the hole to level the area and a hole was drilled to
secure the pot behind a large washer. The lighted Cruise Control switch is
connected to transfer pot duties from the pedal to the dash pot. It works
perfectly. 8. The dash pot is controlled by a small relay just as
described by Ralph Vogan on his website. Be sure the hold coil power comes from
the middle tab on the start switch. 9. The PTO is controlled by a new double connector with the
normally closed points connecting the cables same as in the old open switch. It
works OK. I hope this explains everything to all concerned. Thank you,
Raymon |