RE: (ET) Tiller, take zero

["Elie, Larry \(L.D.\)" <lelie ford com>]

Tiller notes...

The weight box normally used as a counterbalance for the snow thrower 
makes a fine counterbalance for the tiller.  
It can actually be made heavier than the mower deck.  It won't snap in two.

The lift chain is to set the cut depth, the strap is only for lift.  I 
think the manual lift (which I haven't seen in person) uses an adjustable 
chain length on the lift itself.  To lift the tiller with an electric lift 
you MUST double back the strap like a block and tackle.

Tiller tines, even when 'sharp' are VERY dull compared to mower blades.  
Go find a Troy-Built dealer and look at the tines.  That is how sharp 
yours should be.  Believe it or not, very sharp tines cut HARDER than 
slightly duller ones; there is more surface area in contact with the 
ground.  Sharp tines also wear much faster.  These are supposed to be 
'self-sharpening' to some extent.  The problem is dull tines plug with 
weeds easier.  Plugging with weeds is my number 1 problem, and with the GE 
'4 tine' design, they are harder to clean out than on say a Troy-Built 
with a 2 tine design.

The tiller is really a cultivation tool.  Fresh sod can only be tilled if 
you scalp the weeds/turf first, and then dig so deep the thing won't take 
off on you driven by the tiller.  You are better off with a plow first.  
LL is normal for slightly packed soil.  For later cultivation in sandy 
soil (like I do with my strawberries) I can run in L at 3" depth, or even 
D1 at 1.5" depth.  BTW, this is one area where a machine with more 
electrical speeds, an E15 or E20 shines over an E12; the lowest electrical 
speed is lower, and the highest electrical speed is higher so you can get 
a good fit to the soil.  For cultivation, you can shift the tiller to one 
side on the toolbar as it is substantially narrower than the tractor.  A 
simple stainless hose clamp will keep it from sliding.  I made side guards 
too for tight cultivation.

The tiller load should be no higher than your mower load.  Either the 
tiller is plugged, too deep, or you have another problem.  If you continue 
to till in the yellow for long periods, the thermal interlock will trip.  
It's on the side of the frame mount in the triangular shaped area.  Wait a 
few minutes and press it in hard with a screwdriver.  You will hear it 
snap in.

There are two hitch settings on the axle.  One is supposed to be for more 
aggressive tilling, but I choose the one with the most ground clearance.

I made a rear toolbar and have mounted a planter behind on occasion.  The 
thing becomes LONG.

Larry Elie


-----Original Message-----
From: elec-trak-bounces cosmos phy tufts edu
[mailto:elec-trak-bounces cosmos phy tufts edu]On Behalf Of Christopher
Zach
Sent: Friday, April 08, 2005 8:09 PM
To: Elec-trak list
Subject: (ET) Tiller, take zero


So I finally started using the tiller this evening.

I still don't have a lift motor, so I went to Home Depot and got some 
chain. It looks like 3/16 chain is the only thing that will fit in the 
groove of the lift holder; I assume that is strong enough or do I need 
more?

Not sure how one uses both the chain and the lift strap; looks crowded. 
Anyone have a picuture of how this should be done when I actually get a 
lift motor?

The tiller is heavy; no doubt about it. I can only steer when I have the 
mower deck up; I think I have found the counterbalance for the snow 
thrower next winter. Put the two of these things on and the tractor will 
probably break in half :-)

Any tips on tilling? Any thoughts on the best way to do it, when to do 
it, how to till under some leaves and ground, etc? Sharpen the tines or 
any other tricks? Should they be rotating such that they want to drive 
the tractor forward? Also how does one route/secure the power cord?

Chris


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