Re: (ET) Re: testing batteries

["Mike Wallace" <metman glasgow-ky com>]

Thanks for the help guys.

The maintenance guy at the Country Club has just two 36 volt carts to 
change
out right now, and he's pretty sure only one cart might have decent
batteries.  I'll try and get him to make sure that set is charged before he
takes them out.  He thinks the owner (just happens to be my dentist, but he
doesn't know I want his old batteries) did a decent job of watering with
distilled water only and keeping them charged regularly.

I'll fix the load tester and take it, my Fluke, a hydrometer, and a pad a 
paper
with me when I go look at them next week.

Jim, when you said, "should be over 6 volts no load, and over 5 volts with
load", did you mean when using recommended 10 second load test at 100
amps with the automotive load tester?  I doubt if this old load tester 
could
take much more, but with only $5 and some time replacing one of the leads
invested, so what if I burn it up.

Thanks again,
Mike






----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Jim Coate" <jbc coate org>
To: "Elec-Trak" <elec-trak cosmos phy tufts edu>
Sent: Friday, March 25, 2005 9:13 AM
Subject: (ET) Re: testing batteries


> To *really* test the batteries would take a lot of time that you can't do
> in the field. However, assuming you have a pile to choose from for cheap:
>
> You could first open the caps and look inside. No water, lots of gross
> stuff growing on the plates, etc. would be cause to move on. Also make
> sure the terminals and case don't look abused, dropped, etc. Then can use
> your load tester... should be over 6 volts no load, and over 5 volts with
> load. Any battery that drops under 4 volts has a reversed cell so leave it
> and move on.
>
> This will get you a bunch of cheap batteries that at least have some life
> in them. You won't know how much capacity they have until you either do
> detailed load testing (ie keep a load on them until discharged, recharge,
> and repeat several times). Putting them in the tractor is probably the
> easiest way to test. I'd be tempted to buy say 9 potentially decent ones
> so as to have a few backups. If you have an external charger, it would be
> a good idea to charge the batteries individually before trying in the
> tractor (or at least in pairs if you have a 12-volt automotive charger
> handy).
>
>
> Mike Wallace wrote:
> > Okay guys, I got one for you to discuss.  I've got a lead on some
> > supposedly "decent" used golf cart batteries for $6 a piece from a local
> > golf course. $6 is the current core charge that the Interstate dealer is
> > charging the guy that's selling the new batteries to the guy at the golf
> > course.
> >
> > What's the best way to try and field test them before I go to the trouble
> > of buying them and bringing them home.  Currently in my area, no
> > recycling businesses are buying old batteries.
> >
> > Is the standard automotive load tester worth using on our batteries?  I
> > recently acquired a "defective" one that just needed a new lead on one
> > side; and naturally I've got a hydrometer and volt meter.
> >
> > Any suggestions?  Especially on just how to use the load tester, if it's
> > feasible to even try to use it.
> >
> > Mike in KY
>
> _________
> Jim Coate
> 1970's Elec-Trak
> 1998 Chevy S-10 BEV
> 1997 Chevy S-10 NGV
> http://www.eeevee.com
>
>
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