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Re: (ET) charging

My battery cables are kind of funky, they are autopart store clamps where the wire is clamped by a flat plate. The PO had a good idea using the screw top posts, the clamp is put on the post and tightened and then a nut and washer are put on the top screw portion of the battery post and tightened down forcing the clamp onto the taper of the post.
Bad. The problem with this is that the lead will deform around the post, and the battery wire will work it's way loose=loose connection=problem. As it loosens, the post gets hot, which makes the problem worse.
People on the EV list strongly recommend against using the top post for anything other than sensor wires.
A way to verify this is to drive around and see if any of the posts are warm. Warm equals resistance and so forth.
The standard around the post clamps are the best way to go. Get a bunch at the local auto parts store, clip off those ends you have, and do it right. 

Chris


I
really should get made up battery cables but that would be one more expense on top of my planned purchase of the Alltrax controller. I'm looking forward to removing all the wiring out of my tractor, all the mods by the PO and having it be relatively simple. 

The spirit is willing but the wallet is weak :-)

Jeff Tickner
Technical Support
800-545-9485, Ext 536
SoftLanding Systems


*Christopher Zach <czach computer org>*
Sent by: elec-trak-bounces cosmos phy tufts edu

07/12/2004 09:21 AM

        
To
        Jeff Tickner <JeffT softlanding com>
cc
        elec-trak cosmos phy tufts edu
Subject
        Re: (ET) charging


        





Sounds like your batteries are pretty good, however your problem might
be in either the battery clamps, the wires, or your main disconnect.
I've noticed that there is a *serious* voltage drop on my tractor's
wires, life is like that.

For my part, my meter drops under load, but my battery monitors don't
show a problem. Monitors don't lie.

One way to find loose clamps is to drive the tractor around at full
power for awhile, then stop, pop the hood or seat and touch each post
with your hand. You'll feel warm (=loose) ones quickly.

Chris

Jeff Tickner wrote:
 >
 > In preparation for pulling my E15 apart for R&R I decided to put a
 > really good equalization charge on my pack so I ran the charger
 > overnight. I reached a max voltage of 43.4 and all battery cells were
 > bubbling. After I unhooked the charger and let the pack sit a half hour
 > the voltage dropped to 39.5, all the batteries were within .1 volt of
 > one another.
 >
 > Still I think I have a bad cell since after I buttoned it up and drove
 > it to the shed the "gas gauge" dropped a good bit from driving 150
 > yards. I didn't have time to check battery voltage at that time, but is
 > that the best way to find a bad cell, run the batteries down some and
 > see which battery has discharged the most?
 >
 > PS I have one of those "Solargizers" that I purchased because the shed
 > were the tractor is normally parked doesn't have power. While I was
 > cleaning connections yesterday I tested output unconnected to the pack
 > and it was 60+V in full sun. The meter I was using (actually a dwell
 > meter) doesn't have milliamps so I couldn't check output but it's very
 > small.
 >
 > Jeff Tickner
 > Technical Support
 > 800-545-9485, Ext 536
 > SoftLanding Systems
 >
 >
 > *neil <wombat dssinternet net>*
 > Sent by: elec-trak-bounces cosmos phy tufts edu
 >
 > 07/09/2004 05:11 PM
 >
> > To 
 >                  elec-trak cosmos phy tufts edu
 > cc
> > Subject 
 >                  (ET) charging
 >
 >
> > 
 >
 >
 >
 >
 > You're right, that is way too low, I did a fatfinger,  Should have been
> 14.7 or more. I usually use a value of 2.7 volts per cell as the max. > The auto charging systems I worked with were set to 14.4 volts nominal 
 > at under hood temps.
 >
 >
 > _______________________________________________
 > Elec-trak mailing list
 > Elec-trak cosmos phy tufts edu
 > https://cosmos.phy.tufts.edu/mailman/listinfo/elec-trak
 >
 >
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