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Re: (ET) Master Switch



In regards to the fusible link,  better is a fuse used in fork lifts etc.  They are "ANN" rated fuses.  It's basically a small fuse link in a insulated holder with a hole in each end for mounting.  Plus they are pretty cheap (don't remember off the top of my head) .Get one for around 150 Amps and you should be good.  They withstand the overloads seen sometimes when pulling the big hill..
 
Steve
Alltrax
----- Original Message -----
From: RJ Kanary
Sent: Wednesday, June 30, 2004 7:43 PM
Subject: Re: (ET) Master Switch

    Yes, I vaporized a fuse link, exploring the outer limits of grad of my I 20 .  I even had the cover off the control cabinet, for just such an occasion.
     It just plain disappeared in the middle, with about three quarters on an inch remaining in each wire end. The length of time that the arc was sustained is what really surprised me.
      For my money, with all the current that good batteries are capable of delivering, I'll keep the fuse link in mine. You never know when the right pair of components might go to ground, especially when the tractor is unattended.
     I agree with the estimation concerning the OEM power disconnect . Marginal on a good day, and an excellent source of problems after thirty plus years. 
 
----- Original Message -----
Sent: Wednesday, June 30, 2004 10:53 AM
Subject: Re: (ET) Master Switch

You can get this same disconnect switch from JC Whitney for about $24 vs $27 from EV Parts.  Shipping costs look about the same.
 
As for the fuseable link, none of the "off brand" manual disconnects will have anything like it already attached.  I believe that the ones Bill Gunn supplied had been modified, by him, to be able to still use the original fuseable link.  Shouldn't be a big deal to add a piece of sheet Bakelite with a couple holes drilled in it to mount the link and use the switch's own terminals to hold it all in place. 
 
It's not the easiest thing to do, but the OEM disconnect switch can be taken apart and the contact surfaces cleaned to sorta "rebuild" it.  Seems like I may have even put in a stronger spring in one some years back, but it's still a marginal unit.
 
Anybody got a theory, or first hand experience, as to whether or not we even need the fuseable link?  Has anybody ever "blown" theirs?  Or are they just another place to burn your fingers when looking for bad/high resistance connections? 
 
Mike Wallace
Glasgow, KY 
----- Original Message -----
Sent: Wednesday, June 30, 2004 2:24 AM
Subject: (ET) Master Switch

Here is a source for the master switch.  It looks like the new style I bought from Bill last year, but without the fuseable link.  You might be able to use the old link.
 
 


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