----- Original Message -----
Sent: Wednesday, June 30, 2004 7:43
PM
Subject: Re: (ET) Master Switch
Yes, I vaporized
a fuse link, exploring the outer limits of grad of my I 20 . I even had
the cover off the control cabinet, for just such an occasion.
It just
plain disappeared in the middle, with about three quarters on an inch
remaining in each wire end. The length of time that the arc was sustained is
what really surprised me.
For
my money, with all the current that good batteries are capable of delivering,
I'll keep the fuse link in mine. You never know when the right pair of
components might go to ground, especially when the tractor is
unattended.
I agree with the estimation concerning the OEM power disconnect .
Marginal on a good day, and an excellent source of problems after thirty plus
years.
----- Original Message -----
Sent: Wednesday, June 30, 2004 10:53
AM
Subject: Re: (ET) Master Switch
You can get this same disconnect switch from JC
Whitney for about $24 vs $27 from EV Parts. Shipping costs
look about the same.
As for the fuseable link, none of the "off
brand" manual disconnects will have anything like it already
attached. I believe that the ones Bill
Gunn supplied had been modified, by him, to be able to still use the
original fuseable link. Shouldn't be a big deal to add a piece of
sheet Bakelite with a couple holes drilled in it to mount the link and use
the switch's own terminals to hold it all in place.
It's not the easiest thing to do, but the OEM
disconnect switch can be taken apart and the contact surfaces cleaned to
sorta "rebuild" it. Seems like I
may have even put in a stronger spring in one some years back, but it's
still a marginal unit.
Anybody got a theory, or first hand
experience, as to whether or not we even need the fuseable
link? Has anybody ever "blown"
theirs? Or are they just another place to burn your fingers when
looking for bad/high resistance connections?
Mike Wallace
Glasgow, KY
----- Original Message -----
Sent: Wednesday, June 30, 2004 2:24
AM
Subject: (ET) Master Switch
Here is a source for the master switch.
It looks like the new style I bought from Bill last year, but without the
fuseable link. You might be able to use the old link.
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