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You can get this same disconnect switch from JC
Whitney for about $24 vs $27 from EV Parts. Shipping costs look about
the same.
As for the fuseable link, none of the "off
brand" manual disconnects will have anything like it already
attached. I believe that the ones Bill Gunn
supplied had been modified, by him, to be able to still use the original
fuseable link. Shouldn't be a big deal to add a piece of sheet Bakelite
with a couple holes drilled in it to mount the link and use the switch's
own terminals to hold it all in place.
It's not the easiest thing to do, but the OEM
disconnect switch can be taken apart and the contact surfaces cleaned to sorta
"rebuild" it. Seems like I may have
even put in a stronger spring in one some years back, but it's still a marginal
unit.
Anybody got a theory, or first hand
experience, as to whether or not we even need the fuseable
link? Has anybody ever "blown"
theirs? Or are they just another place to burn your fingers when
looking for bad/high resistance connections?
Mike Wallace
Glasgow, KY
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