For those of us who are neither purists, nor electrical engineers, it seems
to me that the Alltrax is the way to go.
I have been reading this board for quite some time, and since I am only a
computer programmer, I cannot understand most of what is said here. I
won't
be replacing any diodes, I am ordering an Alltrax!
perry suppleye com
Perry Cain
Akron OH
-----Original Message-----
From: elec-trak-bounces cosmos phy tufts edu
[mailto:elec-trak-bounces cosmos phy tufts edu] On Behalf Of
elec-trak-request cosmos phy tufts edu
Sent: Monday, April 05, 2004 11:52 PM
To: elec-trak cosmos phy tufts edu
Subject: Elec-trak Digest, Vol 2, Issue 136
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When replying, please edit your Subject line so it is more specific than
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Today's Topics:
1. breadboard fixed (Chris Zach)
2. Re: Rookie questions on an E20 (Chris Zach)
3. Re: ET new technology and abandening the ICE (Rod Hower)
4. Re: ET new technology and abandening the ICE (Chris Zach)
5. Re: ET new technology and abandening the ICE (Rod Hower)
6. Re: ET new technology and abandening the ICE (Chris Zach)
7. Re: ET new technology and abandening the ICE (John B Reinhard)
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Message: 1
Date: Mon, 05 Apr 2004 20:11:14 -0400
From: Chris Zach <czach computer org>
Subject: (ET) breadboard fixed
To: Elec-trak list <elec-trak cosmos phy tufts edu>
Message-ID: <4071F5A2 9020104 computer org>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii; format=flowed
Ok, the breadboard is fixed. Basically what I did was replace all four of
the diodes with good old fashioned 3amp diodes from Radio Shack. The larger
diodes have a forward voltage drop of .5 volts as opposed to 1.0 volts for
the smaller ones. So I took a drill, enlarged the holes in the PCB
slightly,
and soldered in the new diodes.
Put it back in; works like a champ. As a bonus, speeds 6 and 7 now come
online. Now if I could just get a voltmeter that *works* and a bulb for the
cruise control switch I would be 100% set for the summer.
Meantime I will put in an order for 22 ohm resistors and the other oddball
types and replace everything in the fall.
Chris
------------------------------
Message: 2
Date: Mon, 05 Apr 2004 20:31:40 -0400
From: Chris Zach <czach computer org>
Subject: Re: (ET) Rookie questions on an E20
To: Steve George <steve george comdev ca>, Elec-trak list
<elec-trak cosmos phy tufts edu>
Message-ID: <4071FA6C 9020908 computer org>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii; format=flowed
1. Should anything happen when I turn on the key? - i.e should any of
the relays click? Should the gauges show the charge state?
Yup. When you power the key, relays 1 and two should click in. It's a soft
sound, but is there. If you open the top of the relay panel you should see
them move.
2. I've found the seat and brake safety switches - are there any more?
Nope. If they are set (sitting in seat, brake on) then power is applied to
the two relays and the contactor bus is active and ready to shoot.
Assuming of course the disconnect is in.
3. When I press in the 'Disconnect switch' The gauges do show the
charge state and resistor elements get hot (nothing connected to the
PTO). Is this normal? Should the PTO contactor click?
Nope. The motor should *not* be on unless the pedal is down. And the big
front resistors should not get warm. Stop what you are doing, pop the panel
under the steering wheel and check your contactors; one is probably stuck
in
the on position. tap lightly with a hammer to see if they loosen up.
4. When I attempt to charge - with the disconnect out nothing happens
(except the transformer hums). with the disconnect in the resistors
get hot as before. Is this correct? (I can't see any change in battery
voltage but also can't believe the resistors should get hot during
charging).
Once again, contactor is stuck.
5. Does anyone have a circuit diagram for the E20?
Bill Gunn has the manual. Get it. It is without a doubt the best resource;
it has *EVERY* schematic and trouble tree.
it will tell you everything.
6. I assume the large contactors are part of the motor speed control
system, but what is the function of the relays at the top of the plate
(behind the switches)?
The relays control the response of the contactors to the various
interlocks.
Seat, brake, switch, etc. One relay controls the lock-in of the field
weakening circuit, another controls reverse, and another controls the
cruise
control system.
7. How does the cruise control system work? - is this the function of
the PCB's and components.
naah, it's as dumb as a box of hammers. Just holds in the 4th speed
contactor (full power, full field) bypassing the throttle switches. If the
throttle is blipped, or any of the interlocks are hit, the CC shuts off.
The only thing that matters on the PCB for getting the tractor going is the
two diodes to the bottom right. They are part of a set of four and they
provide the power to the field. The rest of the PCB is simply a current
comparitor that allows or shuts down the field weakening circuit under high
motor load. If it's dead speeds 6,7,8 are down, but that's it.
Like I said - I need help. - Once I've got it running I'll start on
the mower and blower...
Call Bill Gunn. He has all the answers.
Chris
------------------------------
Message: 3
Date: Mon, 5 Apr 2004 18:18:36 -0700 (PDT)
From: Rod Hower <rodhower ameritech net>
Subject: Re: (ET) ET new technology and abandening the ICE
To: Elec-trak list <elec-trak cosmos phy tufts edu>
Message-ID: <20040406011836 33693 qmail web80602 mail yahoo com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
You need an Alltrax control!
I plan on ordering one tomorrow.
I know there are diehards on the list that prefer to keep original
equipment, but I will upgrade mine to the latest technology. Like others
on
the list I plan on using this tractor as a practical machine and don't care
much about keeping it original.
I would have converted an ICE machine to electric, but it's much easier to
get an Elec Trak going, even if it is 30+ years old. My mower deck will
use
3 BLDC motors from work with lots of 'engineering' to connect the mower
blade. I would have used the original PMDC mower motors, but the blade and
mounting hardware were in very bad shape and required me to dismember the
parts.
I'll post pictures when the job is finished.
Lots of work, but worth the effort since I don't have to listen to the gas
engine.
Rod
--- Chris Zach <czach computer org> wrote:
Ok, the breadboard is fixed. Basically what I did was replace all four
of the diodes with good old fashioned 3amp diodes from Radio Shack.
The larger diodes have a forward voltage drop of .5 volts as opposed
to 1.0 volts for the smaller ones. So I took a drill, enlarged the
holes in the PCB slightly, and soldered in the new diodes.
Put it back in; works like a champ. As a bonus, speeds 6 and 7 now
come online. Now if I could just get a voltmeter that
*works* and a bulb for
the cruise control switch I would be 100% set for the summer.
Meantime I will put in an order for 22 ohm resistors and the other
oddball types and replace everything in the fall.
Chris
_______________________________________________
Elec-trak mailing list
Elec-trak cosmos phy tufts edu
https://cosmos.phy.tufts.edu/mailman/listinfo/elec-trak
------------------------------
Message: 4
Date: Mon, 05 Apr 2004 22:11:37 -0400
From: Chris Zach <czach computer org>
Subject: Re: (ET) ET new technology and abandening the ICE
To: Rod Hower <rodhower ameritech net>
Cc: Elec-trak list <elec-trak cosmos phy tufts edu>
Message-ID: <407211D9 3060102 computer org>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii; format=flowed
> You need an Alltrax control!
I need an Alltrax controller like I need a hole in my head.
Seriously: The Elec-Trak controller is the model of simplicity and logic. I
have seven speeds times four gears; that's enough to get me the speed
control I need. I have regen and braking for excellent overall speed
control. And I have a little circuit that measures the armature current and
shuts down the field weakening circuit automagically when I overload the
motor.
And cruise control with a little light. What more can I need?
This is not a car, where you want a wide amount of speed settings. I have
28
possibilties between 0 and 7 miles per hour. That's not bad. And besides, I
usually use this thing for constant speed applications like mowing the lawn
or blowing snow. Having a controller that never gives me the same speed
twice would be annoying.
There might be a point in the fact the the E15's controller is a lot more
parsnickety. This appears to be the case; it's logic board tries to do a
lot
of things that the inherent nature of having contactors does for the E-20
(there are no timing circuits on the E20 for example; the contactors
provide
the time for you). And the E20 reverses the motor the
*right* way: By reversing the armature with contactors as opposed to the
field with relay points. The E15 was a cheaper design, but one can fix that
too with simple discrete components.
So for $5.00 for four diodes from Radio Shack my controller is fixed.
And will probably last for another 30 years. At which time I'll simply
replace the components again instead of scratching my head looking at a
solid-state thingie. I'm sure Radio space shack will sell diodes in 2034.
Probably the only remaining weak link is the relays. And to be honest when
they die I could just build a 36 volt to 24 volt power controller for $5.00
and replace the relays with modern 24 volt ones. Sealed too.
$25.00 and that's all done for the next 30 years.
There's a place for everything. A contactor controller doesn't really
belong
on a car (like the Renault electrics) and a digital control doesn't really
belong on a lawn tractor.
As for using the tractor: My E20 is my main mowing and plowing machine.
The simpler the better. BLDC mower motors are nice, but it adds complexity
when the omputer blows out.
Chris Zach
Rod Hower wrote:
I plan on ordering one tomorrow.
I know there are diehards on the list that prefer to keep original
equipment, but I will upgrade mine to the latest technology. Like
others on the list I plan on using this tractor as a practical machine
and don't care much about keeping it original.
I would have converted an ICE machine to electric, but it's much
easier to get an Elec Trak going, even if it is 30+ years old. My
mower deck will use 3 BLDC motors from work with lots of 'engineering'
to connect the mower blade. I would have used the original PMDC mower
motors, but the blade and mounting hardware were in very bad shape and
required me to dismember the parts.
I'll post pictures when the job is finished.
Lots of work, but worth the effort since I don't have to listen to the
gas engine.
Rod
--- Chris Zach <czach computer org> wrote:
Ok, the breadboard is fixed. Basically what I did was replace all four
of the diodes with good old fashioned 3amp diodes from Radio Shack.
The larger diodes have a forward voltage drop of .5 volts as opposed
to 1.0 volts for the smaller ones. So I took a drill, enlarged the
holes in the PCB slightly, and soldered in the new diodes.
Put it back in; works like a champ. As a bonus, speeds 6 and 7 now
come online. Now if I could just get a voltmeter that
*works* and a bulb for
the cruise control switch I would be 100% set for the summer.
Meantime I will put in an order for 22 ohm resistors and the other
oddball types and replace everything in the fall.
Chris
_______________________________________________
Elec-trak mailing list
Elec-trak cosmos phy tufts edu
https://cosmos.phy.tufts.edu/mailman/listinfo/elec-trak
_______________________________________________
Elec-trak mailing list
Elec-trak cosmos phy tufts edu
https://cosmos.phy.tufts.edu/mailman/listinfo/elec-trak
------------------------------
Message: 5
Date: Mon, 5 Apr 2004 19:25:37 -0700 (PDT)
From: Rod Hower <rodhower ameritech net>
Subject: Re: (ET) ET new technology and abandening the ICE
To: Chris Zach <czach computer org>, Rod Hower
<rodhower ameritech net>
Cc: Elec-trak list <elec-trak cosmos phy tufts edu>
Message-ID: <20040406022537 15008 qmail web80606 mail yahoo com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Chris,
The GE control is over 30 years old.
Well designed but not the best upgrade for this machine. I think the
Alltrax control offers simplicity and better operation for people that
can't
deal with failing relays and SCR's that are over 30 years old. I'll admitt
that my mower solution is not for everybody, in fact it's probably only for
me since I have access to free parts to perform this operation. However,
the Alltrax control offers many users a simple and effective replacement
for
an antiquated control.
Rod.
--- Chris Zach <czach computer org> wrote:
> You need an Alltrax control!
I need an Alltrax controller like I need a hole in my head.
Seriously: The Elec-Trak controller is the model of simplicity and
logic. I have seven speeds times four gears; that's enough to get me
the speed control I need. I have regen and braking for excellent
overall speed control. And I have a little circuit that measures the
armature current and shuts down the field weakening circuit
automagically when I overload the motor.
And cruise control with a little light. What more can I need?
This is not a car, where you want a wide amount of speed settings. I
have 28 possibilties between 0 and 7 miles per hour.
That's not bad. And
besides, I usually use this thing for constant speed applications like
mowing the lawn or blowing snow. Having a controller that never gives
me the same speed twice would be annoying.
There might be a point in the fact the the E15's controller is a lot
more parsnickety. This appears to be the case; it's logic board tries
to do a lot of things that the inherent nature of having contactors
does for the E-20 (there are no timing circuits on the E20 for
example; the contactors provide the time for you). And the E20
reverses the motor the
*right* way: By reversing the armature with contactors as opposed to
the field with relay points. The E15 was a cheaper design, but one can
fix that too with simple discrete components.
So for $5.00 for four diodes from Radio Shack my controller is fixed.
And will probably last for another 30 years. At which time I'll simply
replace the components again instead of scratching my head looking at
a solid-state thingie. I'm sure Radio space shack will sell diodes in
2034.
Probably the only remaining weak link is the relays.
And to be honest
when they die I could just build a 36 volt to 24 volt power controller
for $5.00 and replace the relays with modern 24 volt ones. Sealed too.
$25.00 and that's all done for the next 30 years.
There's a place for everything. A contactor controller doesn't really
belong on a car (like the Renault electrics) and a digital control
doesn't really belong on a lawn tractor.
As for using the tractor: My E20 is my main mowing and plowing
machine.
The simpler the better. BLDC mower motors are nice, but it adds
complexity when the omputer blows out.
Chris Zach
Rod Hower wrote:
I plan on ordering one tomorrow.
I know there are diehards on the list that prefer to keep original
equipment, but I will upgrade
mine
to the latest technology. Like others on the list I plan on using
this tractor as a practical
machine
and don't care much about keeping it original.
I would have converted an ICE machine to electric, but it's much
easier to get an Elec Trak going,
even
if it is 30+ years old. My mower deck will use 3
BLDC
motors from work with lots of 'engineering' to
connect
the mower blade. I would have used the original
PMDC
mower motors, but the blade and mounting hardware
were
in very bad shape and required me to dismember the parts.
I'll post pictures when the job is finished.
Lots of work, but worth the effort since I don't
have
to listen to the gas engine.
Rod
--- Chris Zach <czach computer org> wrote:
Ok, the breadboard is fixed. Basically what I did was replace all
four of the diodes with good old fashioned 3amp diodes from Radio
Shack. The larger diodes have a forward voltage drop of .5 volts as
opposed to 1.0 volts for the smaller ones. So I took a drill,
enlarged the holes in the PCB slightly, and soldered in the new
diodes.
Put it back in; works like a champ. As a bonus, speeds 6 and 7 now
come online. Now if I could just get a voltmeter that
*works* and a bulb for
the cruise control switch I would be 100% set for the summer.
Meantime I will put in an order for 22 ohm
resistors
and the other
oddball types and replace everything in the fall.
Chris
_______________________________________________
Elec-trak mailing list
Elec-trak cosmos phy tufts edu
https://cosmos.phy.tufts.edu/mailman/listinfo/elec-trak
_______________________________________________
Elec-trak mailing list
Elec-trak cosmos phy tufts edu
https://cosmos.phy.tufts.edu/mailman/listinfo/elec-trak
------------------------------
Message: 6
Date: Mon, 05 Apr 2004 22:43:58 -0400
From: Chris Zach <czach computer org>
Subject: Re: (ET) ET new technology and abandening the ICE
To: Rod Hower <rodhower ameritech net>
Cc: Elec-trak list <elec-trak cosmos phy tufts edu>
Message-ID: <4072196E 3040708 computer org>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii; format=flowed
Mmm... I'm over 30 years old. And still going pretty well.
I'm not going to blast the Alltrax controller; it's probably a great
product. I just don't see the reasoning behind going with a more complex
solution when a simpler one can do the job.
Then again my 68 911L Porsche has carburators. Which do require a little
bit
of work to keep running, happy, drop of oil, etc. But I will say
this: When I was on the highway and my accel cable broke I simply turned
the
idle screws up to 4,000 RPM and drove the car home.
When my 95 Dodge Caravan with it's computer controlled 3.0L engine decided
it didn't want to run anymore I was dead as a doornail. There is no way you
can bypass the MPS, or work around a shot computer. You're stuck on the
side
of the road.
Yes, carbs have their downside (less efficient, more pollution) but the
computer that they rely on is in your noggin. Same for the E20. When it
comes to technology I like my products to be as dumb as a box of hammers.
Simpler to fix in a pinch. Like when it's snowing.
Chris
Rod Hower wrote:
Chris,
The GE control is over 30 years old.
Well designed but not the best upgrade for this machine. I think the
Alltrax control offers simplicity and better operation for people that
can't deal with failing relays and SCR's that are over 30 years old.
I'll admitt that my mower solution is not for everybody, in fact it's
probably only for me since I have access to free parts to perform this
operation. However, the Alltrax control offers many users a simple
and effective replacement for an antiquated control.
Rod.
--- Chris Zach <czach computer org> wrote:
You need an Alltrax control!
I need an Alltrax controller like I need a hole in my head.
Seriously: The Elec-Trak controller is the model of simplicity and
logic. I have seven speeds times four gears; that's enough to get me
the speed control I need. I have regen and braking for excellent
overall speed control. And I have a little circuit that measures the
armature current and shuts down the field weakening circuit
automagically when I overload the motor.
And cruise control with a little light. What more can I need?
This is not a car, where you want a wide amount of speed settings. I
have 28 possibilties between 0 and 7 miles per hour.
That's not bad. And
besides, I usually use this thing for constant speed applications like
mowing the lawn or blowing snow. Having a controller that never gives
me the same speed twice would be annoying.
There might be a point in the fact the the E15's controller is a lot
more parsnickety. This appears to be the case; it's logic board tries
to do a lot of things that the inherent nature of having contactors
does for the E-20 (there are no timing circuits on the E20 for
example; the contactors provide the time for you). And the E20
reverses the motor the
*right* way: By reversing the armature with contactors as opposed to
the field with relay points. The E15 was a cheaper design, but one can
fix that too with simple discrete components.
So for $5.00 for four diodes from Radio Shack my controller is fixed.
And will probably last for another 30 years. At which time I'll simply
replace the components again instead of scratching my head looking at
a solid-state thingie. I'm sure Radio space shack will sell diodes in
2034.
Probably the only remaining weak link is the relays.
And to be honest
when they die I could just build a 36 volt to 24 volt power controller
for $5.00 and replace the relays with modern 24 volt ones. Sealed too.
$25.00 and that's all done for the next 30 years.
There's a place for everything. A contactor controller doesn't really
belong on a car (like the Renault electrics) and a digital control
doesn't really belong on a lawn tractor.
As for using the tractor: My E20 is my main mowing and plowing
machine.
The simpler the better. BLDC mower motors are nice, but it adds
complexity when the omputer blows out.
Chris Zach
Rod Hower wrote:
I plan on ordering one tomorrow.
I know there are diehards on the list that prefer to keep original
equipment, but I will upgrade
mine
to the latest technology. Like others on the list I plan on using
this tractor as a practical
machine
and don't care much about keeping it original.
I would have converted an ICE machine to electric, but it's much
easier to get an Elec Trak going,
even
if it is 30+ years old. My mower deck will use 3
BLDC
motors from work with lots of 'engineering' to
connect
the mower blade. I would have used the original
PMDC
mower motors, but the blade and mounting hardware
were
in very bad shape and required me to dismember the parts.
I'll post pictures when the job is finished.
Lots of work, but worth the effort since I don't
have
to listen to the gas engine.
Rod
--- Chris Zach <czach computer org> wrote:
Ok, the breadboard is fixed. Basically what I did was replace all
four of the diodes with good old fashioned 3amp diodes
from Radio Shack. The
larger diodes have a forward voltage drop of .5 volts as opposed to
1.0 volts for the smaller ones. So I took a drill, enlarged the
holes in the PCB slightly, and soldered in the new diodes.
Put it back in; works like a champ. As a bonus, speeds 6 and 7 now
come online. Now if I could just get a voltmeter that
*works* and a bulb for
the cruise control switch I would be 100% set for the summer.
Meantime I will put in an order for 22 ohm
resistors
and the other
oddball types and replace everything in the fall.
Chris
_______________________________________________
Elec-trak mailing list
Elec-trak cosmos phy tufts edu
https://cosmos.phy.tufts.edu/mailman/listinfo/elec-trak
_______________________________________________
Elec-trak mailing list
Elec-trak cosmos phy tufts edu
https://cosmos.phy.tufts.edu/mailman/listinfo/elec-trak
------------------------------
Message: 7
Date: Mon, 5 Apr 2004 23:52:07 -0400
From: "John B Reinhard" <reinharj frontiernet net>
Subject: Re: (ET) ET new technology and abandening the ICE
To: <elec-trak cosmos phy tufts edu>
Message-ID: <000d01c41b8a$88bde680$6401a8c0 frontiernet net>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1"
I have to say I partly agree with both Chris and Rod !
I like simplicity - as far as the fact that I can see the smoked diode on
the control board, or the burned wire or relay contacts, or corroded pins
in
the connectors - and I can probably hack together a repair - to get by in
an
emergency.
It is hard to see inside the sealed Alltrax controller, if something goes
wrong.
I have been an electronics tech for over 20 years, designed circuit boards,
and programmed a few microcontrollers to control some low power motors,
etc.
Short of using acid/dremel tool to remove the potting compound, and then
reverse-engineering the control circuit (and software) inside the
controller
(if the software is not code-protected to prevent reading it) - I would be
as stuck as Chris said, if the controller failed.
Having said that, I agree as much or more with Rod: I am really tired of
messing with all the corroded cicuit boards, contactors, relays,
connectors, switches and wires between the 3 still-assembled tractors I
own.
I dream of installing the Alltrax Controller - and having extreme
reliability - except for really simple maintenance like: lubrication, tire
pressure, and battery water - for the next 10 years.
I might keep the second E-20, in case I have that urge to kill the weekend
cutting apart old contactors or relays, and swapping contacts, etc ! :>)
Mostly, this past winter, I just wanted to snowblow my driveway (my
shoulder
still hurts from all the shoveling).
It was usually too miserable outside to want to troubleshoot all the
possible problems with all the 30 year old parts.
I know it was most likely only 1 single dead part - that cost less than $5
to replace (or I probably even had a spare !).
The question was always - WHICH part is bad this time?
I guess I could go out and buy all new contactors, relays, wire, connectors
& pins, and circuit boards and switches, etc. I think the price of all the
parts might be less than the Alltrax.
BUT, have any of you guys ever sat down and stripped ALL the wire, and
crimped all the pins & terminals (& usually soldered them also, to reduce
corrosion), and fitted all the connectors to rebuild a wiring harness ?
Something tells me I could install the Alltrax in a couple hours.
Rebuilding the original wiring harness could take days.
Then, connecting to all the various relays & contactors & etc takes a bit
more time . . .
Does Bill Gunn sell the wiring harnesses?
Anyone besides Steve Richardson complete the conversion to AllTrax
controller yet?
Anyone convert an E-20?
----- Original Message -----
From: "Chris Zach" <czach computer org>
To: "Rod Hower" <rodhower ameritech net>
Cc: "Elec-trak list" <elec-trak cosmos phy tufts edu>
Sent: Monday, April 05, 2004 10:43 PM
Subject: Re: (ET) ET new technology and abandening the ICE
Mmm... I'm over 30 years old. And still going pretty well.
I'm not going to blast the Alltrax controller; it's probably a great
product. I just don't see the reasoning behind going with a more complex
solution when a simpler one can do the job.
Then again my 68 911L Porsche has carburators. Which do require a little
bit of work to keep running, happy, drop of oil, etc. But I will say
this: When I was on the highway and my accel cable broke I simply turned
the idle screws up to 4,000 RPM and drove the car home.
When my 95 Dodge Caravan with it's computer controlled 3.0L engine
decided it didn't want to run anymore I was dead as a doornail. There is
no way you can bypass the MPS, or work around a shot computer. You're
stuck on the side of the road.
Yes, carbs have their downside (less efficient, more pollution) but the
computer that they rely on is in your noggin. Same for the E20. When it
comes to technology I like my products to be as dumb as a box of hammers.
Simpler to fix in a pinch. Like when it's snowing.
Chris
Rod Hower wrote:
Chris,
The GE control is over 30 years old.
Well designed but not the best upgrade for
this machine. I think the Alltrax control offers
simplicity and better operation for people that
can't deal with failing relays and SCR's that
are over 30 years old. I'll admitt that my mower
solution is not for everybody, in fact it's probably
only for me since I have access to free parts to
perform this operation. However, the Alltrax control
offers many users a simple and effective replacement
for
an antiquated control.
Rod.
--- Chris Zach <czach computer org> wrote:
You need an Alltrax control!
I need an Alltrax controller like I need a hole in
my head.
Seriously: The Elec-Trak controller is the model of
simplicity and
logic. I have seven speeds times four gears; that's
enough to get me the
speed control I need. I have regen and braking for
excellent overall
speed control. And I have a little circuit that
measures the armature
current and shuts down the field weakening circuit
automagically when I
overload the motor.
And cruise control with a little light. What more
can I need?
This is not a car, where you want a wide amount of
speed settings. I
have 28 possibilties between 0 and 7 miles per hour.
That's not bad. And
besides, I usually use this thing for constant speed
applications like
mowing the lawn or blowing snow. Having a controller
that never gives me
the same speed twice would be annoying.
There might be a point in the fact the the E15's
controller is a lot
more parsnickety. This appears to be the case; it's
logic board tries to
do a lot of things that the inherent nature of
having contactors does
for the E-20 (there are no timing circuits on the
E20 for example; the
contactors provide the time for you). And the E20
reverses the motor the
*right* way: By reversing the armature with
contactors as opposed to the
field with relay points. The E15 was a cheaper
design, but one can fix
that too with simple discrete components.
So for $5.00 for four diodes from Radio Shack my
controller is fixed.
And will probably last for another 30 years. At
which time I'll simply
replace the components again instead of scratching
my head looking at a
solid-state thingie. I'm sure Radio space shack will
sell diodes in 2034.
Probably the only remaining weak link is the relays.
And to be honest
when they die I could just build a 36 volt to 24
volt power controller
for $5.00 and replace the relays with modern 24 volt
ones. Sealed too.
$25.00 and that's all done for the next 30 years.
There's a place for everything. A contactor
controller doesn't really
belong on a car (like the Renault electrics) and a
digital control
doesn't really belong on a lawn tractor.
As for using the tractor: My E20 is my main mowing
and plowing machine.
The simpler the better. BLDC mower motors are nice,
but it adds
complexity when the omputer blows out.
Chris Zach
Rod Hower wrote:
I plan on ordering one tomorrow.
I know there are diehards on the list that prefer
to keep original equipment, but I will upgrade
mine
to the latest technology. Like others on the list
I plan on using this tractor as a practical
machine
and don't care much about keeping it original.
I would have converted an ICE machine to electric,
but it's much easier to get an Elec Trak going,
even
if it is 30+ years old. My mower deck will use 3
BLDC
motors from work with lots of 'engineering' to
connect
the mower blade. I would have used the original
PMDC
mower motors, but the blade and mounting hardware
were
in very bad shape and required me to dismember the
parts.
I'll post pictures when the job is finished.
Lots of work, but worth the effort since I don't
have
to listen to the gas engine.
Rod
--- Chris Zach <czach computer org> wrote:
Ok, the breadboard is fixed. Basically what I did
was replace all four
of the diodes with good old fashioned 3amp diodes
from Radio Shack. The
larger diodes have a forward voltage drop of .5
volts as opposed to 1.0
volts for the smaller ones. So I took a drill,
enlarged the holes in the
PCB slightly, and soldered in the new diodes.
Put it back in; works like a champ. As a bonus,
speeds 6 and 7 now come
online. Now if I could just get a voltmeter that
*works* and a bulb for
the cruise control switch I would be 100% set for
the summer.
Meantime I will put in an order for 22 ohm
resistors
and the other
oddball types and replace everything in the fall.
Chris
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End of Elec-trak Digest, Vol 2, Issue 136
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