RE: (ET) got it running

[D Howell <dervatl yahoo com>]

John I recently had my lights "come on superbright"
when I pushed the pedal.  Turned out to be a very
simple problem.  My headlight wires had got too close
to the big silver bands under the transformer mesh. 
Because they get hot at slower speeds they cooked the
plastic off the wires, which allowed the wires to
touch them.  This allowed the lights to come on
anytime there was voltage to those windings.  The more
pedal I gave it, the brighter they became.

Darryl Howell
Smyrna GA



--- john briese <goodguyforsure hotmail com> wrote:
> I know it won't be cheap, but there is something
> very frustrating about 
> using a 30 year old solution that was built out of
> off the shelve parts to 
> begin with when there is an elegant control
> available.
> Anyway, all the "speeds" after the cruise light came
> on, just slowed the 
> tractor down.  Now, I hear relays go but no
> movement, voltage goes to 0 and 
> the lights come on super bright when you hit the
> "gas".  I am sure I have a 
> short to ground somewhere.
> John
> 
> 
> >From: Humphrey Timothy H Contr AFRL/IFEC
> <Timothy Humphrey rl af mil>
> >To: 'john briese' <goodguyforsure hotmail com>
> >Subject: RE: (ET) got it running
> >Date: Thu, 22 May 2003 13:40:36 -0000
> >
> >John;
> >
> >My I5 was malfunctioning also.
> >
> >Can you describe what yours was doing before it
> died. If your controller
> >card is bad, I may be able to help you fix it.
> >
> >I am an electronic technician and the cards for the
> I5 control are simple
> >circuits. Bill gets $45 for a new card.(which is
> not bad) I rebuilt mine 
> >for
> >less than twelve.
> >
> >It may be your card that's bad or it may not, if it
> isn't I would consider
> >going with the electronic PWM controllers which
> will greatly simplify the
> >wiring and get rid of most of the relays. However
> it will not be cheap.
> >
> >Stay Charged!
> >Hump
> >I5/NY
> >
> >
> >-----Original Message-----
> >From: john briese
> [mailto:goodguyforsure hotmail com]
> >Sent: Thursday, May 22, 2003 9:07 AM
> >To: elec-trak cosmos phy tufts edu
> >Subject: Re: (ET) got it running
> >
> >
> >I have an I-5 that has stopped running. The speed
> controls were not working
> >properly before and it is now dead.  I want to
> install a new motor
> >controller, but I am not sure I understand all
> thats involved. Ignoring the
> >safety lockouts for the time being:
> >1) Can I use the forward/reverse switch with a new
> controller or do I need 
> >a
> >
> >new set of contactors for this function.
> >2) I understand the present system uses field
> weakening, is this necessary
> >and are there controllers which will do this?
> >3) What is the MC7 that you list below?
> >4) Can you show me a wiring diagram that you used?
> >Thanks for the help.
> >John Briese
> >2- I5's, one living, one dead!
> >
> >
> > >From: "Ferguson Apiaries" <ferga hay net>
> > >To: <elec-trak cosmos phy tufts edu>
> > >Subject: (ET) got it running
> > >Date: Sun, 18 May 2003 20:12:51 -0400
> > >
> > >Well I finally got my ET running.  I went to fix
> the old electrics but
> > >thought it was to complicated even with the
> semantics.
> > >
> > >I put a Curtis 1206 for the armature and a MC7 30
> amp in for the field.
> > >I
> > >added the Landis battery charger and after 2 hrs
> on old golf cart 
> >batteries
> >
> > >I took it for a drive.
> > >
> > >Reverse is built into the MC7 so I have a dpdt no
> contact in centered
> > >switch for forward and reverse that shuts the
> power off .  I have to put
> > >the belly mower on and add the safety switches
> for it.  I just need a new
> > >set of batteries now.
> > >Ferguson Apiaries
> > >Hensall, On
> > >519-236-4979
> >
>
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