Re: (ET) Re:MY "NEW IDEA" EGT ON FIRE

["Jim (fiskfarm)" <fiskfarm attbi com>]

Hi Jim

Keep in mind that the lights and lift only run 12v and 18v respectively 
(well some of us cheat and run the lift at 24v :-). But those unfused 
wires still burn very hot. Standard glass fuses should be adequate here 
and will save a great deal of wire harness damage. The
car high power amp fuse holders are rated at least 50A.

I like your terminal cover idea. Any good sources come to mind? That with 
the covers and the masonite  or plywood would offer 3 layers of protection 
for the bat terminals.

Jim

Jim Coate wrote:

> Scary moments there for Paul... and now I do the "could it happen to me"
> mental exercise.
>
> A few thoughts: Bill Gunn has replacement disconnects that are more
> rugged than the original equipment. I believe he also has the plastic
> covers to go over the batteries to add some protection for the
> terminals. And probably has some official weight boxes to put in the
> rear stabbers and safely carry those concrete blocks.
>
>  From some of the EV suppliers you can get rubber boots that go over the
> ends of the cables to cover the cable clamp & terminal offering another
> layer of protection.
>
> And for fuses... be sure to use ones rated for at least 50 volts (for
> the peak voltage at end of charge) and a capable of interrupting a
> couple thousand amps (the short circuit current of the battery). A good
> ceramic/glass fuse will keep the spark inside. Those plastic automotive
> blade fuses are only rated for 32 volts and will might arc and melt.
>
> Glad the damage wasn't worse than it was.
>
> Bob Murcek wrote:
> > I thought about putting fuses in the battery box, but I've wondered 
> > about the danger of a blowing fuse making a spark that would set off 
> > the hydrogen.  (If the pack was overloaded it would probably be 
> > outgassing more than usual.)  Anyone have expertise in this area?
>
> _________
> Jim Coate
> 1992 Chevy S10
> 1970's Elec-Trak
> http://www.eeevee.com