Re: (ET) Bye bye brakes

["RJ Kanary" <rjkanary nauticom net>]

I'm puzzled. My E-20 has a die cast caliper, and the rotor floats on it.
> Christopher Zach wrote:
>
> > That helps an incredible amount. My rotor didn't seem to float on the
axle,
> > which made me guess it was a deformation type. However those require
careful
> > setting of the pad clearance (and a screw device to maintain the
clearance
> > as the pad wears) so I was confused. Is there a blow-out of the parts
that
> > make up the brake system anywhere on the internet? If my puck is gone I
want
> > to make sure there isn't something else I need that goes between the
> > activation dowel and the brake puck itself.
> >
> > If the rotor is unable to float on the shaft though; you won't get 
> > great
> > braking action, and you might wind up bending the rotor. 
> > Interesting....
> >
> > I'll pull the wheel and start working on this next weekend. Two quick
> > questions:
> >
> > 1) Where is a good place to jack the Elec-Trak on the back? Do I have 
> > to
> > haul out the batteries before jacking?
> > 2) Can one put a jackstand under the axle? (I never work on anything
without
> > tires or jackstands)
> >
> > Thanks!
> > Chris
> >
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: "Jim (fiskfarm)" <fiskfarm mediaone net>
> > To: "Christopher Zach" <czach computer org>
> > Cc: "Elec-trak" <elec-trak cosmos phy tufts edu>
> > Sent: Monday, February 04, 2002 9:43 AM
> > Subject: Re: (ET) Bye bye brakes
> >
> > > Hey Chris,
> > >
> > > The rotor is NOT supposed to "deform" but rather float free on it's
keyed
> > > shaft. I use a combo of air chisel, Breakaway and sometimes heat to
free
> > up the
> > > rotor and then remove it , clean up both shaft and sleeve, retighten
the
> > rivets
> > > by hammer and anvil (or replacement) and reinstall all with a gentle
> > coating
> > > (you don't want any on the rotor and pads) of Never Seize. Here,
unlike a
> > car,
> > > the caliper doesn't float, but the rotor does. Also you will want to
sand
> > the
> > > rotor smooth with either a power sander or rotate the rotor in place
with
> > the
> > > motor while sanding by holding the paper against it. Not for the 
> > > faint
of
> > heart
> > > but probably the fastest for the more experienced. DO NOT "grab" the
rotor
> > with
> > > the paper , but rather sand one side at a time. New pads (if they are
> > shot) go
> > > without saying. Stainless steel rotors would avoid about 99% of the
> > problems
> > > with these breaks. That and Never Seize.
> > >
> > > Hope this helps you along,
> > >
> > > Jim
> > >
> > > Christopher Zach wrote:
> > >
> > > > Well, I figured out why I have no brakes....
> > > >
> > > > No brake pad :-)
> > > >
> > > > Seriously, the outboard pad is gone. It appears that the brake 
> > > > lever
> > engages
> > > > a cam which pushes on a metal dowel which pushes on a pad which
pushes
> > the
> > > > disc into another static pad on the other side. Interesting design,
are
> > > > there any specs for pad clearance on the static pad (if it wears
down,
> > the
> > > > disc will have to deform more and more for the brake to engage, 
> > > > thus
> > > > reducing brake effectiveness)
> > > >
> > > > Ah well, it looks like the pad disintegrated or something. I'll 
> > > > call
Mr.
> > > > Gunn and see if he has a new puck.
> > > >
> > > > Chris
> > >
> > >
>
>