RE: (ET) Re: ET mower motor removal...it worked!

["Elie, Larry (L.D.)" <lelie ford com>]

The nylocks will last for at least 5 years (mine have to date) and 
probably longer.

Nylocks have another problem; you have to 'wrench' them all the way.  
They are never finger tight.  To make life easy, you get the bolt as 
short as you can (rule of thumb is 1.5 to 3 turn showing after nut, 
depending on whose thumb) so you don't have to work too hard.

The flange nuts don't have to be very strong; normal hardware store 
grade ss (18-8) are about grade 2 and they work fine.  You can get 
304 SS (about grade 7) if you look around, 3 lines on the top or a 
stamp 304 tells you what you have.  If you want real strong ones 
you can get 12 point heads on them as well and 304L, but now we are 
talking money, and you don't need that strength on sheet metal.  
Those are usually only used on high-temperature pressure vessels and 
vacuum systems that are baked to high temperature.  They still 
aren't as strong as other alloys at room temperature; their only 
purpose in life is corrosion resistance and temperature.

As far as galling; a little drop of anti-seize compound on the thread 
works fine.  It doesn't take much.  If you don't get them real hot, 
you might get away without even that.  Heat tends to drive out any 
oil-type lubes and that makes galling worse.

Larry Elie

-----Original Message-----
From: Dave Barden [mailto:daveb speakeasy net]
Sent: Tuesday, March 27, 2001 3:37 PM
To: Elie webmail speakeasy net; Larry; 'frankenfield'; E-trak
Subject: RE: (ET) Re: ET mower motor removal...it worked!


I too replaced all nuts and bolts on my mower deck with stainless with 
heads
down and threads up. I used nylock nuts and wonder if anyone else has and
how well they hold up over time.  also there's at least two types of
locktite, one removeable and one not.  I believe the red one is removable.
I'm sure someone on the list has more info/knowledge.  
thanks for the tip about "galling" and lub'ing to prevent it.

dave

> ------------ Original Message -----------
> From: Elie, Larry (L.D.) <lelie ford com>
> Date: Tue, 27 Mar 2001 11:15:42 -0500
> 
> I use stainless hardware; not much more expensive, and strong enough.
> Socket-heat 
> caps-screw, 1/4"-20 and a stainless locking nut (some folks use lock
> washers) and it 
> won't shake off and it will still come off.
>  
> Larry Elie
>  
> -----Original Message-----
> From: frankenfield [mailto:res08b3w verizon net]
> Sent: Tuesday, March 27, 2001 5:19 AM
> To: E-trak
> Subject: (ET) Re: ET mower motor removal...it worked!
> 
> 
> Hello,
> 
> I got the mower-motor off.  Again, I'm surprised that the manual doesn't
> tell you how remove motors, to save yourself some grief.  I was doing it
> on
> a fairly cold day and feeling full of self-pity.  Maybe it's is in the
> archives somewhere but,  having gone through several hundred messages, I
> gave up on that route.  Thanks for the helpful information and
> encouragement.  
> I learned a few things along the way.  Perhaps some of this is supposed 
> to
> be so obvious any idiot...well you know the rest.  So, for those of us 
> who
> have to buy the "Idiots guide to boiling water", a suggested approach:
> 
> 
> 1. Assuming that the electricals are disconnected and the blade is off 
> the
> shaft:   The bottom flange, below the mower deck on this motor is a split
> flange: kind of like a lock-washer is split.  Anyway, if you spread this
> flange very slightly at the split with a screw driver {may be hidden
> around
> at the back of the motor and/or covered with crud} the flange separates
> from
> the motor housing more easily.
> Rust no longer binds it up so much and then you can start to rotate
> it/work
> it down and off the bottom of the motor housing.
> 
> 2.  The upper flange, above the mower housing, is spot welded to the 
> motor
> housing.  Prying on it will only bend it if the bottom flange is rusted 
> in
> place or otherwise resistant to movement.  So,...
> 
> 3.  Ignore the upper flange till the lower one is off.  The bottom one 
> can
> be replaced or carefully bent back into proper shape.  But if you bend it
> up
> I'd clean up the mating surfaces and apply some sealant to keep junk out.
> What do you think?  Will sealant only make it harder the next time 
> around?
> __________
> 
> By the way, I'm thinking of replacing the four 1/4"[?] standard bolts 
> that
> clamp the motors on the deck, with someting that takes an allen-wrench or
> otherwise allows you to avoid trying to remove these "soft" nuts/bolts
> with
> end wrenches/crescent wrenches etc.  I couldn't get a socket on these
> fasteners because they were set too close to the body of the motor and I
> did
> a fair job of buggering up the paint with the wrenches.  The person who
> last
> removed this motor had fought the same fight and left a gouge in the 
> paint
> that has pretty well rusted through by now.  An unnecessary pain in the
> neck,  it seems to me.  Has anyone else replaced these fasteners; and 
> with
> what?
> 
> Thanks "trakkies",
> 
> 
> Steven Frankenfield
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
>