RE: (ET) Re: ET mower motor removal...it worked!

[Dave Barden <daveb speakeasy net>]

I too replaced all nuts and bolts on my mower deck with stainless with 
heads down and threads up. I used nylock nuts and wonder if anyone else 
has and how well they hold up over time.  also there's at least two types 
of locktite, one removeable and one not.  I believe the red one is 
removable.  I'm sure someone on the list has more info/knowledge.  
thanks for the tip about "galling" and lub'ing to prevent it.

dave

> ------------ Original Message -----------
> From: Elie, Larry (L.D.) <lelie ford com>
> Date: Tue, 27 Mar 2001 11:15:42 -0500
> 
> I use stainless hardware; not much more expensive, and strong enough.
> Socket-heat 
> caps-screw, 1/4"-20 and a stainless locking nut (some folks use lock
> washers) and it 
> won't shake off and it will still come off.
>  
> Larry Elie
>  
> -----Original Message-----
> From: frankenfield [mailto:res08b3w verizon net]
> Sent: Tuesday, March 27, 2001 5:19 AM
> To: E-trak
> Subject: (ET) Re: ET mower motor removal...it worked!
> 
> 
> Hello,
> 
> I got the mower-motor off.  Again, I'm surprised that the manual doesn't
> tell you how remove motors, to save yourself some grief.  I was doing it
> on
> a fairly cold day and feeling full of self-pity.  Maybe it's is in the
> archives somewhere but,  having gone through several hundred messages, I
> gave up on that route.  Thanks for the helpful information and
> encouragement.  
> I learned a few things along the way.  Perhaps some of this is supposed 
> to
> be so obvious any idiot...well you know the rest.  So, for those of us 
> who
> have to buy the "Idiots guide to boiling water", a suggested approach:
> 
> 
> 1. Assuming that the electricals are disconnected and the blade is off 
> the
> shaft:   The bottom flange, below the mower deck on this motor is a split
> flange: kind of like a lock-washer is split.  Anyway, if you spread this
> flange very slightly at the split with a screw driver {may be hidden
> around
> at the back of the motor and/or covered with crud} the flange separates
> from
> the motor housing more easily.
> Rust no longer binds it up so much and then you can start to rotate
> it/work
> it down and off the bottom of the motor housing.
> 
> 2.  The upper flange, above the mower housing, is spot welded to the 
> motor
> housing.  Prying on it will only bend it if the bottom flange is rusted 
> in
> place or otherwise resistant to movement.  So,...
> 
> 3.  Ignore the upper flange till the lower one is off.  The bottom one 
> can
> be replaced or carefully bent back into proper shape.  But if you bend it
> up
> I'd clean up the mating surfaces and apply some sealant to keep junk out.
> What do you think?  Will sealant only make it harder the next time 
> around?
> __________
> 
> By the way, I'm thinking of replacing the four 1/4"[?] standard bolts 
> that
> clamp the motors on the deck, with someting that takes an allen-wrench or
> otherwise allows you to avoid trying to remove these "soft" nuts/bolts
> with
> end wrenches/crescent wrenches etc.  I couldn't get a socket on these
> fasteners because they were set too close to the body of the motor and I
> did
> a fair job of buggering up the paint with the wrenches.  The person who
> last
> removed this motor had fought the same fight and left a gouge in the 
> paint
> that has pretty well rusted through by now.  An unnecessary pain in the
> neck,  it seems to me.  Has anyone else replaced these fasteners; and 
> with
> what?
> 
> Thanks "trakkies",
> 
> 
> Steven Frankenfield
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
>