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Re: (ET) Introduction from Michigan
I'll take a stab at the plastic bags.
The original batteries in the ETs were flooded lead-acid batteries, with
caps that allowed gases to escape from the cells to avoid pressure build-up.
However, the stock charger was designed to over-charge the batteries on
every charge cycle. The industry calls it 'equalization'. I call it
battery boiling. Either way, one result is that some of the vapour
(Cdn) is actually acid mist. The bags were intended to protect the
metal boxes from the acid mist which contributed to rusting.
There are a few solutions to this. If the metal is in rough shape, fix
it first.
Then, either find a new version of the plastic bags (possibly heavy
vapour barrier cut to size),
or really slather on rust paint to protect the metal (some here are fans
of POR-15, but it's not cheap),
or switch to sealed batteries (the way I eventually went).
There are also chargers that can charge without equalization, but that
topic draws fire on this list. (Disclosure: I'm a distributor for a
line of such chargers.) However, I think you'll be fine with the
Minn-Kota, and that is a screaming deal you got.
Actually, as I understand you are somewhat new to these venerable
machines, a few suggestions about the batteries. I'm assuming the
12-volt deep cycle batteries have removable cell covers. Sometimes
these are ganged in threes and may have to removed with a narrow wedge
item like a slot screwdriver. Wear eye protection before opening the
cells and while working with electrolyte. Gloves if you can manipulate
things with them on. It's dilute sulphuric acid, but it is acid. I
recommend against wearing cotton clothes for this, like blue jeans. (I
learned some things in less than the most optical manner, so you don't
have to.)
Check the electrolyte (water) levels in each cell. You want to ensure
the plates inside each cell are completely covered before charging. If
not, add distilled water just enough to cover the plates. (A pen light
is a handy tool for this.)
Do a full charge cycle.
Check the voltages on each battery for the first few charge cycles. You
want them to be really close in voltage when fully charged - preferably
within 0.1 volts. If more than that, consider giving the lowest battery
some additional charge time to see if that helps close the gap.
If the voltages don't start to align, try testing the voltage while
charging several times and track the voltages. There's a slight chance
the Minn-Kota bank charger isn't delivering the same voltage on all
circuits, but I expect that is not the likely issue, if you have one.
You may also unbalance the pack due to various devices (like the
attachment lift motors) drawing more from some batteries than others. I
get this with my front lift during snow moving season.
When the batteries are fully charged, you can add more distilled water
to the cells if the electrolyte level is low. There is usually a 'full'
line in the cell tops as a guide. No extra points for getting right to
that line, but you really don't want to overfill.
If you are undoing and doing up bolt connections at the battery posts or
studs, invest in an extra wrench or two, and wrap the wrenches in
electrical tape except for the actual end you are using on the nuts.
Unplanned arc welding is really hard on the battery posts, and often
costs a battery. A dedicated, wrapped wrench is a lot less expensive,
and exciting.
I have had good service from my ETs, sparked a lot of interesting
conversations with passers-by, and generally found the repair work worth
the effort (though my patience is diminishing with the years). Amazing
what they can do.
Welcome.
On 2024-05-20 1:49 a.m., David Kirk wrote:
I have three 12v deep cycle batteries and was hooking up three battery
chargers after unhooking the batteries, temporarily. I found a local
company that services the little electric scooters at Walmart stores and
routinely sells used components from these installations. I bought a
Minn Kota MK330PC battery charger for $40 which permanently connects to
three batteries, and will charge the three batteries simultaneously at
10amp each without unhooking the batteries, regardless of series or
parallel battery wiring. It is water-proof and weighs I'm guessing 7-8
pounds, surprisingly beefy little thing. It will also equalize wet-cell
batteries. These chargers run just shy of $300 on Amazon so $40 is a
smoking good deal. It has four mounting holes so it will mount in the
tractor permanently and I'll be adding an external 110v receptacle for
plugging the tractor in to charge, using the power cord you find on your
computer power-supply, with a closing moisture-proof door. I will
probably remove the factory charger and bolt the new charger to that
front panel. They have more of these chargers if anyone wants one.
Some photos show tractors with batteries contained within plastic bags
and others do not. What is the advantage of putting the batteries in the
bags, to contain accidental spillage of a cracked battery?
--
Darryl McMahon
Freelance Project Manager (sustainable systems)
Do not mistake patience for weakness, nor action for strategy.
--
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