Since the controller is 10+ years old, could be it just gave out. If so, I'm thinking you may be best off replacing it with an identical unit for a simple install unless you have another techie friend close by.
On 05/23/2019 9:13 pm, Lisa B. wrote:
I have been using the 1204 24-36 volt Curtis Controller for about 10 years now. I needed a way to use the tiller in a slower speed then the Elec Trak could go and my friend Nick and I, who were driving early electric car conversions, thought we could use one of the smaller controllers that you find on golf carts. This was before Alltrax was making them to be used on Elec Traks.. The contactors are all used (excepting the 1A on the main studs) as well as all of the other automatic and manual switching. After the start switch on the speed controller is moved forward or reverse from the neutral position, a small pot on the dash controls the amount of voltage supplied, taking the place of the different set speeds that the Elec Trak has. I could never go slow enough to till or mow in tall grass or brush with the mid-mount mower. To be honest. Nick helped with most of the brain work. He unfortunately now lives out of state. I have done well keeping it alive and well all these years, now just a little stumped at the issue I am having. I am attaching a schematic I made of the set up. Kevin On 5/23/19 6:03 PM, Jim Coate wrote:I was going to try and clarify what voltages are being measured but then saw "and a Curtis controller also". Huh?? If you have converted to an electronic controller, I'd expect that you would no longer have most of the relays or contactors. Do tell more!On 05/23/2019 6:28 pm, Lisa B. wrote:Hello everyone. New to this email list. Having troubles with my tractor. A couple of weeks ago went out to mow and nothing, no forward, noreverse, some clicking (small 2A contactor). Had just mowed day beforeand it had been mowing for well over a month prior to this with no issues. The things I notice? The key switch passes it's test across the terminals, but once it is turned on, things test wacky with voltage doing pretty much the opposite than it should...voltage upwith key off. When key is turned on, it drops to nothing. Isolated themain wire to the relay (2RTN) and when the key is off it reads 34 V and when on, zero.Installed new RTN's today. They look beautiful and are working as theyshould however, it did not fix the problem. We are still getting voltage at the fuel gauge when the key is off. We did see a change with the new RTN's in that the voltage on the fuel gauge doesn't drop when key is turned on. Looking at the schematics in Simplified Troubleshooting- it seems negative current is being drawn up into thefuel gauge when it shouldn't be, activating it when the key is off. We tested the motor and field and got the following= Test 19-Wires 62 and22 Plug 3. Get around 16 volts at all speeds. All of the remaining tests-20-24, we get nothing. We had the key on for awhile and noticed that the small 2a contactor got hot which is the main one that clicks when the key is turned on. FYI-I have the new single contactors replacing the double pole and a Curtis controller also. I have continuity between the armature studs. Mystified. PTO works good. _______________________________________________ Elec-trak mailing list Elec-trak cosmos phy tufts edu https://cosmos.phy.tufts.edu/mailman/listinfo/elec-trak
-- Jim Coate www.FreeRangeElectric.com Home of The Electric Tractor Store