Re: (ET) bench test drive motors

["Harold Zimmerman - Clean Power Supply" <cleanpower mailbug com>]

 Mike,
 RJ is right, you need to supply voltage to the field at the same time. 
The 4-pin flat plug has a little rib on the side. The field wires are the 
ones on each side of that rib. Jumper one of them to an armature terminal 
and the other to the other armature terminal.
 Sincerely,
 Harold Zimmerman
 Ephrata PA
 717-859-4234
 Supplier of parts for General Electric Elec-Trak, New Idea and Wheel 
Horse Electric Tractors.

On December 7, 2018 at 9:03am -0500, you wrote:

>I need some confirmation please!
>I am 90% certain that several years ago I bench tested several drive and 
>attachment motors, using two 18v cordless drill batteries connected in 
>series.. Obviously not a lot of capacity but 2 seconds just to test each 
>motor. Recently, however, I recreated that setup on an E20 motor with bad 
>results and now I am doubting what I (think I) did successfully back then.
>This time the motor spun very slow for about a half turn and stopped. 
>Worse, when I put one battery back into the drill, it was 100% gone, and 
>then would not recharge- ruined. I then rethought everything and decided 
>that that battery must have been the problem so I brought out another E20 
>motor tagged as "runs good" and repeated the setup (replacing the dead 
>drill battery with another). Same basic result, however this time both 
>drill batteries worked afterward. Should this setup work or is my 
>recollection faulty?
>1. I had attached the leads from the makeshift battery pack to the two 
>terminal studs labeled A1(red 8) and S2 (black 10) as shown in fig. 7-8. 
>Concluding either lead on either terminal would not matter. I did not do 
>anything with CB-1, it remained unconnected. Field weakening plug was 
>also unconnected.
>2.? I decided to test in the first place because I had loosened the 
>terminal nuts and was surprised how loose the terminal bolt becomes. (I 
>am restoring this tractor and am obsessive about cleaning/shining all 
>bolts and nuts). Then I was concerned about what might have happened 
>internally when the bolts moved around so much. I found an exploded 
>diagram of E20 motor on George's website and saw that the bolts have a 
>tapped head with a wire attached, the terminal bolt is held/restrained by 
>an internal flat washer. So I was comfortable repositioning the bolt and 
>washer, the square spacer, and the insulating pad to their original 
>position and then re-tightening the nut.
>Sorry to be so wordy but wanted to be as descriptive as possible. What am 
>I missing? Thanks! Mike.
>
>_______________________________________________
>Elec-trak mailing list
>Elec-trak cosmos phy tufts edu
>https://cosmos.phy.tufts.edu/mailman/listinfo/elec-trak

------------------------------------------------------------------
Sent from my MailBug email device. Info: 1-855-MAILBUG, mailbug.com