I had used a depth gauge to determine the length of bolt needed to bottom in the bore, yet have the head well above the end of the shaft.The thread length was sufficient so that threads were still visible after bottoming occurred.
After
using a properly sized tool, the issue had not surface on subsequent repairs.
Maybe there was something wrong with my approach the first few times. :)
RJ Kanary
ASE® Certified Master Auto Technician, (Retired).
On 5/30/2016 5:57 AM, Harold Zimmerman
- Clean Power Supply wrote:
Speaking from experience after removing scores if not hundreds of these clutch bodies. The key is to thread a grade 8 bolt in UNTIL THE THREADS BOTTOM OUT but the head of the bolt must not, may not, be down against the clutch body. I don't recall ever having messed up threads when doing it this way. Now, if you thread the bolt into only part of the threads, that is asking for trouble. Harold Zimmerman On May 29, 2016 at 9:54pm -0400, you wrote:The recommendation on trying NOT to use the bolt is>from an abundance of caution. I had noticed some bolts not feeling quiteright upon reassembly. I suspected distortion of the shaft thread being the culprit since the shaft is easily marked with a file. The shafts///soft/ . The bolts used were Grade 6 or higher. So a suitable drift, or a cut down engine pushrod of the proper diameter could be used. Again, after decades of corrosive activity, those can be NASTY tight. Protect yourself.Things that should not break or slip, sometimes DO. :(------------------------------------------------------ Sent without a computer from my MailBug email machine. landel.com, 1-855-MAILBUG, getmailbuginfo landel com ------------------------------------------------------ _______________________________________________ Elec-trak mailing list Elec-trak cosmos phy tufts edu https://cosmos.phy.tufts.edu/mailman/listinfo/elec-trak
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