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Re: (ET) welding a ring onto deck motor
Thanks Kim and everyone else. If the JB Weld would be sufficient, I'd
rather just do that than also mess with drilling into the motor casing.
Has anyone else JB Welded one of those rings on, and successfully used it
without problems for a while?
Kim - why is it necessary for the flange holes to be in the same location
as beforehand? I know you want the ring at the same location on the motor
so that the mower blade sits at the same height below the deck, but I
wouldn't think the flange being put on rotated around the motor axis (so
the holes are somewhere else) would matter. Wouldn't it just affect the
orientation of the connections on the top afterwards (and breaker)?
Thanks!
Mike
________________________________
Michael S. Briggs, PhD
UNH Physics Department
(603) 862-2828
________________________________
________________________________________
From: Kim Petty <kim coveside net>
Sent: Friday, May 6, 2016 12:31 PM
To: elec-trak cosmos phy tufts edu elec-trak cosmos phy tufts edu; Briggs,
Michael
Subject: Re: (ET) welding a ring onto deck motor
PS. I now see a possible clearance issue with pushing a bolt through from
the inside. The bolt head could get in the way of the the throught bolt
that holds the end plates on. I don’t see a problem yet with tapping and
installing a short bolt from the outside.
Kimball
> On May 6, 2016, at 11:51 AM, Kim Petty <kim coveside net> wrote:
>
> I know more now. The ring is easily removed by making one slice across
> it in between two of the flange mounting holes(1/16’’ cutting wheel or a
> hack saw should work fine) then drill out the 5 spot welds , tap the
> ring with a cold chisel (or what ever you have) at the spot welds to
> finish freeing them, spread the ring slightly (twist a screw driver in
> the cut slot) and slide the old ring off. Mark where the flange holes
> are before you remove it.( I now have a useable reinforcement ring.)
> Clean contact surfaces ,apply JB Weld,slide on the new ring with
> flange holes in the same place as the old ring. Make sure it is where
> you want it and install a SS hose clamp until JB Weld sets. This may be
> strong enough but if it were me I would then drill and tap two holes 180
> degrees apart through the collar of the flange and the case so they miss
> the magnets(#7 drill for 1/4 coarse or #3 drill for 1/4 fine or proper
> drill size for what you will use as a tap) . I suppose instead of
> tapping one could just drill a 1/4’’ hole and push a bolt through from
> the inside with a nyloc nut on the outside. The nut probably won’t come
> off but you would not be able to retighten it with out taking the motor
> apart.(maybe JB Weld the bolt in?) Install motor with a second ring on
> the blade side. Michael, I will send you some pictures off forum.
> Kimball
> .
>> On May 6, 2016, at 10:16 AM, Kim Petty <kim coveside net> wrote:
>>
>> I’m a JB Weld fan also. The slow cure it is twice as strong. Also I
>> would slide another ring up from the blade side with no JB weld . The
>> rings were intended to reinforce from the bottom. I haven’t actually
>> tried this so I don’t know how hard the material is but maybe you could
>> drill and blind tap the case for attaching the top ring as well as use
>> JB weld . Just a few of 3/16’’ or 1/4'’ screws would give some extra
>> shear strength . I would also be afraid to get too much heat around the
>> magnet bond. I have and junk case and time, maybe I will make removing
>> the old ring and tapping a hole todays amusement.
>> Kimball
>>> On May 6, 2016, at 8:24 AM, David Roden <etpost drmm net> wrote:
>>>
>>> On 6 May 2016 at 6:35, Tim Humphrey wrote:
>>>
>>>> I'd use JB Weld.
>>>
>>> I would too. It's downright amazing what that stuff can do.
>>>
>>>
>>> David Roden - Akron, Ohio, USA
>>>
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