[Date Prev][Date Next][Thread Prev][Thread Next][Date Index][Thread Index]

Re: (ET) welding a ring onto deck motor



PS. I now see a possible clearance issue with pushing a bolt through from 
the inside. The bolt head could get in the way of the the throught bolt 
that holds the end plates on. I don’t see a problem yet with tapping and 
installing a short bolt from the outside.
Kimball
> On May 6, 2016, at 11:51 AM, Kim Petty <kim coveside net> wrote:
> 
> I know more now. The ring is easily removed by making one slice across 
> it in between two of the flange mounting holes(1/16’’ cutting wheel or a 
> hack saw should work fine) then drill out the 5 spot welds , tap the 
> ring with a cold chisel (or what ever you have) at the spot welds to 
> finish freeing them, spread the ring slightly (twist a screw driver in 
> the cut slot) and slide the old ring off.  Mark where the flange holes 
> are before you remove it.( I now have a useable reinforcement ring.)
>       Clean contact surfaces ,apply JB Weld,slide on the new ring with 
> flange holes in the same place as the old ring. Make sure it is where 
> you want it and install a SS hose clamp until JB Weld sets. This may be 
> strong enough but if it were me I would then drill and tap two holes 180 
> degrees apart through the collar of the flange and the case so they miss 
> the magnets(#7 drill for 1/4 coarse or #3 drill for 1/4 fine or proper 
> drill size for what you will use as a tap) . I suppose instead of 
> tapping one could just drill a 1/4’’ hole and push a bolt through from 
> the inside with a nyloc nut on the outside. The nut probably won’t come 
> off but you would not be able to retighten it with out taking the motor 
> apart.(maybe JB Weld the bolt in?) Install motor with a second ring on 
> the blade side.  Michael, I will send you some pictures off forum.
> Kimball
> .
>> On May 6, 2016, at 10:16 AM, Kim Petty <kim coveside net> wrote:
>> 
>> I’m a JB Weld fan also. The slow cure it is twice as strong. Also I 
>> would slide another ring up from the blade side with no JB weld . The 
>> rings were intended to reinforce from the bottom. I haven’t actually 
>> tried this so I don’t know how hard the material is but maybe you could 
>> drill and blind tap the case for attaching the top ring as well as use 
>> JB weld . Just a few of 3/16’’ or 1/4'’ screws would give some extra 
>> shear strength . I would also be afraid to get too much heat around the 
>> magnet bond. I have and junk case and time, maybe I will make removing 
>> the old ring and tapping a hole todays amusement.
>> Kimball
>>> On May 6, 2016, at 8:24 AM, David Roden <etpost drmm net> wrote:
>>> 
>>> On 6 May 2016 at 6:35, Tim Humphrey wrote:
>>> 
>>>> I'd use JB Weld.
>>> 
>>> I would too. It's downright amazing what that stuff can do.  
>>> 
>>> 
>>> David Roden - Akron, Ohio, USA
>>> 
>>> = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = 
>>> Note: mail sent to the "etpost" address will not reach me.  To send 
>>> me a private message, please use the address shown at the bottom
>>> of this page : http://www.evdl.org/help/
>>> = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = =
>>> 
>>> 
>>> 
>>> 
>>> _______________________________________________
>>> Elec-trak mailing list
>>> Elec-trak cosmos phy tufts edu
>>> https://cosmos.phy.tufts.edu/mailman/listinfo/elec-trak
>> 
>> 
>> _______________________________________________
>> Elec-trak mailing list
>> Elec-trak cosmos phy tufts edu
>> https://cosmos.phy.tufts.edu/mailman/listinfo/elec-trak
>> 
> 
> 
> _______________________________________________
> Elec-trak mailing list
> Elec-trak cosmos phy tufts edu
> https://cosmos.phy.tufts.edu/mailman/listinfo/elec-trak
>