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Re: (ET) Curtis controller mod

I installed a Curtis 1204 years ago.  Most are set up for series or PM.  I 
set up a relay to supply power to the field when the forward or reverse 
was selected.  I kept the original resistors and contractors in place so I 
could convert back if needed.  It has been very reliable.  I would like to 
have regen braking but don't .  I have a manual field weakening control 
that deActivates each time I stop.
Rob in NH

Sent from my iPhone

> On Apr 27, 2016, at 4:49 PM, David Roden <etpost drmm net> wrote:
> 
>> On 27 Apr 2016 at 17:41, Briggs, Michael wrote:
>> 
>> Has anyone done a detailed "how to" on updating an Elec-Trak to a Curtis
>> controller, including a parts list?
> 
> I recall someone posting about a Curtis conversion several years ago.  I 
> don't think I've ever seen a cookbook style how-to, though.
> 
> Most Curtis golf car controllers are designed for series motors.  You'd 
> need 
> a way to make sure the field was powered before applying armature 
> current.  
> Also, I don't know whether it would apply to the golf car controllers, 
> but 
> some larger Curtis controllers' current limit doesn't work fast enough 
> with 
> the lower inductance that a separately excited motor armature presents.  
> If 
> this proved to be a problem, you could fix it with an extra high-current 
> inductor in series with the armature.  
> 
> In behavior, sepex motors are closer to PM motors than to series motors. 
> So 
> as I posted the other day, I recommend trying a 4QD PM motor controller 
> instead of a Curtis series controller.   But I'm sure you could get a 
> Curtis 
> to work with a little hacking.
> 
> 
> David Roden - Akron, Ohio, USA
> 
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