Had to take mine out to replace the strap on oem lift. A major nuisance. I can do a lot of things mechanically...but when and if that motor fails I go straight to Harold.
Cheers to Charlie for doing more than I would do.
Jack
On May 2, 2014, at 10:31 AM, Cz wrote:
Take the big gear out first.
Charlie <medievalist gmail com> wrote:
I thought I'd just peel off the plastic coating that the motor
assembly was dipped in at the factory, but it hung on like grim death
- it's not coming off without solvents. Instead I used a knife and
whittled away enough to get a nut-driver on the long bolts and then
cut around the casing seams.
But
I still can't get the guts to come out... basically I have a
one-inch gap I can peer into. I can't figure out how to release the
worm gear from it's housing, either, and the worm acts like its cut
into the end of the shaft rather than being a separate part. :(
Do both ends of the casing come off? Like, does the end plate that
has the electrical connector come off after the bolts are loose? I
haven't had any luck with it, but I could always use a mallet on it if
it's supposed to come off.
But after blasting out the couple tablespoons of black powder I can
see a set of contacts that look like they're probably held together by
a bimetallic spring, presumably a thermally controlled voltage cutout?
I can also see that the brushes are about as thick as a piece of
paper, and the commutator is deeply grooved.
If I can find an affordable newly made or NOS replacement for this
motor I
should probably replace it. Otherwise I guess I'm going to be
whittling some new brushes...
--Charlie
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