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So it appears that it is relays. When bolted in it torques it a little and makes one of the contacts not line up correctly. Odd that both relays suffer from the same thing, but certainly not impossible. looks like the original one will work, at least right now.
Replaced the brake adjuster nut with a nyloc so you can adjust the brakes quickly, as that is a frequent chore.
All oiled and grease, if the relay problem stays quiet should be ready to wreak havoc.
On 2015-05-06 16:21, stupidemail5 lycos com wrote:
Ok so no current, won't light a light bulb, so probably no issue there.
I'm thinking I'll double sticky tape the damn relay in.....
On 2015-05-06 15:44, Jim Coate wrote:
Yes, the chassis should be isolated. In turn "should" see zero volts, but modern meters may confuse the readings. A light bulb can be useful in testing as you say. Wiring harness damage or build up of carbon dust in the motor are possible causes (although the latter is only on vehicles with a lot of use that have worn down the brushes to make the dust). Look at the wiring harness under the frame near where the belts go from the motor to the transmission as often not secured tightly enough and gets frayed by the moving belts. Or as RJ mentioned the headlight wiring can melt into the big power resistor (toaster) up front. Or mice can chew pretty much anywhere they like.
Dirty batteries can also cause problems. A thin film of dust and dirt impregnated with water/acid spray makes a decent conductor. A good scrubbing fixes it, but probably clean batteries to start as you just put them in.
On 5/6/15 11:02 AM, stupidemail5 lycos com wrote:
9-18 volts between chassis and various front battery terminals, changes when motor is under power. Not sure what I am supposed to see, but that seems wrong if chassis is meant to be isolated. Where to look? Charger? On 2015-05-06 12:54, jlantonucci comcast net wrote:
Always check for voltage on the frame. It can cause weird symptoms.
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