Re: (ET) She runs...but

[Jim Coate <lists freerangeelectric com>]

Yes, the chassis should be isolated. In turn "should" see zero volts, 
but modern meters may confuse the readings. A light bulb can be useful 
in testing as you say. Wiring harness damage or build up of carbon dust 
in the motor are possible causes (although the latter is only on 
vehicles with a lot of use that have worn down the brushes to make the 
dust). Look at the wiring harness under the frame near where the belts 
go from the motor to the transmission as often not secured tightly 
enough and gets frayed by the moving belts. Or as RJ mentioned the 
headlight wiring can melt into the big power resistor (toaster) up 
front. Or mice can chew pretty much anywhere they like.

Dirty batteries can also cause problems. A thin film of dust and dirt 
impregnated with water/acid spray makes a decent conductor. A good 
scrubbing fixes it, but probably clean batteries to start as you just 
put them in.

On 5/6/15 11:02 AM, stupidemail5 lycos com wrote:
> 9-18 volts between chassis and various front battery terminals, changes
> when motor is under power. Not sure what I am supposed to see, but that
> seems wrong if chassis is meant to be isolated. Where to look? Charger?
>
> On 2015-05-06 12:54, jlantonucci comcast net wrote:
>
>> Always check for voltage on the frame.  It can cause weird symptoms.
>>