Re: (ET) Further front lift disassembly woes

[Charlie <medievalist gmail com>]

I looked at the photos on Markus Lorch's excellent E20 lift motor page
at http://markus.lorch.net/et/lift-motor.html and figured out what was
going on.

Basically there was caked, gummy grease holding the worm gear in.
When I put a drift into the top hole and hit it with a mallet
everything came apart easily.

The brushes are about twice as thick as a matchbook cover.  Some how
they kept working until the pigtail wore free on one of them.

New 1/4" square carbon brushes are on order from McMaster Carr, and
other than that I'm just going to do a thorough cleaning and
regreasing.  If the circuit breaker can't be made to behave, I'll use
R. J.'s trick and just bypass it entirely.

Thanks for all the help and advice guys!

--Charlie

On Fri, May 2, 2014 at 9:53 AM, Charlie <medievalist gmail com> wrote:
> I thought I'd just peel off the plastic coating that the motor
> assembly was dipped in at the factory, but it hung on like grim death
> - it's not coming off without solvents.  Instead I used a knife and
> whittled away enough to get a nut-driver on the long bolts and then
> cut around the casing seams.
>
> But I still can't get the guts to come out... basically I have a
> one-inch gap I can peer into.   I can't figure out how to release the
> worm gear from it's housing, either, and the worm acts like its cut
> into the end of the shaft rather than being a separate part.  :(
>
> Do both ends of the casing come off?  Like, does the end plate that
> has the electrical connector come off after the bolts are loose?  I
> haven't had any luck with it, but I could always use a mallet on it if
> it's supposed to come off.
>
> But after blasting out the couple tablespoons of black powder I can
> see a set of contacts that look like they're probably held together by
> a bimetallic spring, presumably a thermally controlled voltage cutout?
>  I can also see that the brushes are about as thick as a piece of
> paper, and the commutator is deeply grooved.
>
> If I can find an affordable newly made or NOS replacement for this
> motor I should probably replace it.  Otherwise I guess I'm going to be
> whittling some new brushes...
>
> --Charlie
>
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