Garry Freese still here in East TN . On May 7, 2010, at 12:44 PM, Garry Freese wrote:
When the mutual conductance of the wires caused by the operation of the Landis Controller, starts the motor of your built in GE timer, install a ON/OFF between one of the wires of the motor. The timer motor will start at zero and go all the way around. About 14 plus hours worth. Turn this switch OFF when using the Landis Controller and On when you want an equalizing charge. Notice I said WHEN, This WILL happen unless the GE timer motor is defective or removed from the circuit. I did NOT believe it at first when it happened but others from this list said it also happened to them. Yes, I have the Landis Controller and Like the Landis Controller, and will order more when the time is right.Garry East TN
At 10:47 AM 4/28/2014, you wrote:
Don't forget what happened to me. I left the original charge timer wired in _WITH_ a Landis controller.In such a case, the 2 controllers were incompatible with each other and the timer kept getting reactivated at the end of its cycle. This essentially cooked my batteries for weeks until I noticed "Hey, why does the hum of the charger always seem to be on, and why is the gas alarm in my house always going off?"Another thing to keep in mind is that battery water evaporates just as easily as it boils off from overcharging. I remember having to keep topping off the batteries at least once per month to make sure the plates weren't exposed. You can't just plug and forget. These batteries require maintenance by you in a way that a charge controller can never do due to the water requirements.--------------------------------- Sincerely, Jeremy Gagliardi http://Jeremy.Gagliardi.com mailto:Jeremy Gagliardi com --------------------------------- On 4/24/2014 11:31, Nick Skinner wrote:There are a couple of possibilities I haven't seen mentioned yet. If this was a Landis Controller, it is possible that (A) the power disconnect was not engaged, (B) the control panel mounted circuit breaker popped open, and/or (C) there was a charger component failure (i.e., diodes or capacitor). Any single or combination of these items would lead to an undercharged pack. B and/or C would explain why subsequent attempts to charge the battery pack would fail. Hydrometer readings from the batteries would be very helpful in determining what is going on, as would a charger voltage measurement. Nick -----Original Message----- From: Jim Coate [mailto:lists freerangeelectric com] Sent: Thursday, April 24, 2014 11:20 AM To: elec-trak cosmos phy tufts edu Subject: Re: (ET) batteries What type of charge controller were you using? As others have said, likely to have overcharged the batteries to the point of no return, but... I'd check the voltage of each battery. Preferably under modest load like the mowing deck running. Looking to see if 5 batteries are good, holding around 6 volts, and one battery is the stinker and plummets to near zero volts. This could mean that the one battery died more of its own accord and the charge controller didn't toast the whole pack. On 4/23/14 9:59 AM, Ferguson Apiaries wrote:I left my tractor plugged in to a charge controller all winter to keep up the charge and now I have very little capacity in the batteries. I can get about 5 mins. running time. Is there anything I can do to revive them?--