Re: (ET) battery cables

[Charlie <medievalist gmail com>]

I thought people didn't solder heavy current cables because the solder
will melt out and run into other stuff if the connection overheats?

If I have my home foundry up and running by the time I need a new set
of cables, I'll see if I can lost-wax cast solid copper ends onto 4
gauge, and sidestep the whole solder vs crimp issue altogether.

--Charlie

On Fri, Aug 9, 2013 at 1:18 PM, Robert Troll <roberttroll hotmail com> 
wrote:
> Use tinned marine cable of the same gauge as stock. Marine cable has far
> greater corrosion resistance, and is cheaper to boot. I buy mine on ebay 
> for
> a $1 or so a foot. And because the strands are fine you can twist it into
> almost any shape easily.
>
> You can put in a larger cable, but unless you plan on putting in a larger
> motor that will be pulling more amps, it is not necessary. If it were GE
> would have put in larger cables. IMHO The place to concentrate your 
> efforts
> and cash is in making sure you have good solid connections. This is where
> the largest source of resistance will be.
>
> It is generally not recommended in the marine world to solder high 
> current
> connections. Something to do with creating more resistance and localized
> heating of the connector.
>
>
>>
>> I need to replace a couple of the shorter battery cables. The current 
>> (ha
>> ha) cables are 4 gauge and may not be original?
>>
>> I have a vague idea that I've read that heavier cables would be better. 
>> If
>> so, what size, and where's the best/least expensive place to get them? 
>> I do
>> not want to make my own, as I understand they really need to be crimped 
>> with
>> the appropriate tooling.
>>
>> My batteries have golf cart studs. Were the original E-T 
>> cables/batteries
>> car type posts?
>>
>> For some reason the E-T index is not allowing searches?
>>
>> Thanks.
>>
>> Thon
>>
>
>
>
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